Floating Rock: You should Khmer

ROCK SOLID: Relocated from Revere, Floating Rock’s new digs in Cambridge’s Central Square are impressive. (Photo by Matthew West)

Friday, June 17, 2011
By Mat Schaffer
Boston Herald (Massachusetts, USA)

Floating Rock, the Cambodian restaurant in Revere that became a cult favorite of many Hub foodies, has relocated to fancy new digs in Central Square with mixed results.

The menu has been truncated. The predominantly Western waitstaff is well-intentioned, but not of much assistance when it comes to helping you order. And price-wise, the new Floating Rock is considerably more expensive than comparable eateries. Then again, there’s a full bar, lengthy cocktail, wine and beer lists, and the place is gorgeously decorated in earthen tones with long upholstered banquettes and carved sculptures.

If you’re new to Cambodian — or Khmer — cuisine, you will find it similar to the cuisines of neighboring Thailand and Vietnam. Rice is a staple. Lots of stir-fries and curries. Lots of vegetables — often raw. And Cambodian fare makes frequent use of a fermented fish paste called prahok, which has a distinctive, salty flavor.

At Floating Rock, prahok is the primary ingredient in the maddeningly misnamed curry pork in pickled fish sauce ($19). It’s actually a Khmer classic called prahok k’tih, a dip of steamed pork, prahok, curry and coconut milk served with crudites. It’s spicy, sweet, fishy and delicious. Try it spooned over rice.

In Cambodia, meals are typically composed of several dishes, rice and a soup, served together and shared by everyone. At Floating Rock, dishes are served American-style, in courses with individual entrees.

I’m not sure shrimp in a blanket ($8) is authentically Khmer, but unadventurous diners will surely like the deep-fried tiger shrimp wrapped in rice paper, presented with sweet chili sauce and slaw made of carrots and green papaya.

Cambodian summer rolls ($6) are deep-fried, rice paper cigars stuffed with pork (or tofu) and carrots. Fresh spring rolls ($6) are filled with rice noodles, shrimp, carrots and Thai basil. They’re virtually identical to their Vietnamese cousins, but without the peanut sauce.

Usually, tiger tear salad ($16) — a mix of grilled flank steak, red and green bell peppers, lemon grass, red onion and basil tossed in a spicy and tart dressing and sprinkled with roasted ground rice — has a pronounced spicy kick. Not so at the new Floating Rock.

If you’re looking for heat, go with cha ugg ($14). This homey stir-fry of ground beef, basil, garlic and chilies lives up to the flame icons next to it on the menu.

I’ve only had amok ($18) — a soufflelike mix of minced catfish, coconut milk and spices — steamed in a banana leaf. Here it’s prepared in a small casserole sans aromatic leaf. It’s almost (but not quite) as good.

I think I would have better enjoyed fried fish with ginger ($19) — a generous fillet of deep-fried haddock under a gloppy sweet and salty sauce of slivered ginger, red bell pepper and onions — minus the sauce.

Steak loc lac ($18) is a tasty stir-fry of cubed beef in peppery hoisin sauce on a bed of slivered red and white onions, surrounded by lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers. Promised lime dipping sauce never made it to the table.

One of the best dishes here is the Khmer noodle soup ($9) of rice noodles, slivered steak, shrimp and dense meatballs in savory broth sprinkled with fried garlic. Season it according to your druthers with lime, hoisin, fish sauce, chili flakes, chili sauce, pickled chilies, Sriracha, salt and sugar.

For dessert, ask for buttery rich and custardy yucca cake ($7) — it’s a frequent special. You’ll also love slices of banana poached in coconut milk ($6).

Floating Rock comes to Cambridge with a reputation for authenticity and an enthusiasm to educate the public about true Khmer cuisine. Here’s hoping they can recapture that Revere magic in their new Central Square home.

Hours: Daily, 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Bar: Full Credit: All Accessibility: Accessible Parking: Nearby lots, on street