Wednesday, June 07, 2006

Stung Meanchey Dump [Actourism (Activism Tourism) encouraged]

The kids are so nice it's heartbreaking. (Photo Jeff Koyen)

The majority of workers are kids, most just barely into their teens. (Photo Jeff Koyen)

By Jeff Koyen
Posted at http://www.gridskipper.com/travel/phnom-penh
06 Jun 2006


For most tourists, a few days in Phnom Penh means the classic combo of the Killing Fields and S21, a stroll through the disappointing “Russian market,” maybe a trip to the shooting range. Then, feeling sufficiently shitty for living a life of such excess, many visit an orphanage. Throwing a few dollars at cute, smiling children – cleaned up and taught to dance – is an easy way to assuage guilt. There’s nothing wrong with this, as Cambodia is choc-a-bloc with worthy causes. From the landmined limbless who need jobs, to those cute little kids who need an education, to the stray dogs that need nutrition. By all means, be charitable. For a glimpse into the true lives of Phnom Penh’s poorest, however, take a tuk-tuk to the Stung Meanchey garbage dump, where several hundred people survive on society’s leftovers. The way I heard it, several years ago it was decided that the modest congregation of tin shacks clinging to the dump’s fringe should be cleaned up. The NGOs arrived and relocated families to proper homes; word spread that moving to the dump meant receiving aid. When the NGO money ran out, the problem was worse than ever. More info and photos after the jump.

Visiting sites of human misery is a tricky thing. On one hand, conscientious travelers can help by documenting the plights of the poor. On the other hand, ungodly hellholes such as Stung Meanchey can become day-tripper tourist attractions. For example, check out the Wikitravel entry for Phnom Penh. Stung Meanchey is listed between the shooting range and the National Museum.

Done right, a few hours here can be rewarding and genuinely helpful. Don’t just bring your camera; fill your tuk-tuk with as much fresh fruit and bottled water as possible. The kids will clamor for the former, the parents for the latter. Despite their hardships, these are the friendliest goddamn people in the world; they’re eager to talk, eager to invite you into their homes. Wear rugged shoes, and don’t think too much about the filth; precious theoretical do-gooders should stick to the orphanages. Click here to see Jeff's photo gallery on Flickr.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Cambodian people tears dropped!