Siem Reap is still a Cambodian delight

The wonders of Angkor Wat are mindboggling

13 November 2006
Posted at Pattaya Today (Thailand)

But hurry as it’s changing fast. The name Siem Reap, rather tactlessly translating as “Thailand Defeated”, is the gateway to Cambodia’s cultural heritage but is almost a city in its own right of about 100,000 people. But it’s growing really fast and there’s massive construction going on everywhere. Already there are five star hotels on both the airport road and the road to the famed Angkor Wat. And pretty soon there are going to be lots more of them.

In the 19th century Siem Reap was nothing more than a fishing village but began to find fame in the 1960s after celebrities like Charlie Chaplin and Jackie Kennedy made the trek to Angkor Wat. Then, civil war and the rule of the Khmer Rouge from 1975 to 1979, meant that the town began a long slumber from which it only awakened in the mid 1990s. These days it’s awash with generally well heeled tourists from Europe, America, China and Japan in particular.

Getting there Most travellers from Thailand will take the Bangkok Airways direct flight from Suvarnabhumi airport to Siem Reap, a trip of around 35 minutes with hardly enough time to gulp your caffeine free hot drink and your ham sandwich before it’s time to stow your tray in an upright position. The airline has a monopoly contract for another two years which explains the hefty price of over 10,000 baht return. It’s said that there’s a bus direct from Bangkok, although it’s known locally as the “scam bus” and can take days, so leave this option to your mother in law. Another way to get there might be a taxi from the Aranyprathet border crossing, a distance of around 150 kms, but it’s a complicated matter and the road has all but collapsed in places. Dark rumours circulate that airlines have paid a load of money not to have the holes filled any time soon. Finally, if you happen to be in Phnom Penh in the first place, you can take a boat to Siem Reap or buy a domestic airticket relatively cheaply.

Surprises on arrival It’s sometimes said that Siem Reap resembles Pattaya thirty years ago. Well, sort of. You may be surprised at the airport to find a taxi driver waving aloft your name on a board even though you have not requested a pickup service. Somehow or other, it leaks out you are coming! The fare downtown is a modest US$6, but don’t forget the visa on arrival at immigration will cost you US$20 (remember to bring a passport photo) and the departure tax is US$25. It’s best throughout your stay to use to spend in dollars and you’ll get your change in the same currency. The Cambodian riel is for very small transactions. A big difference from Pattaya is that you are going to see a lot of beggars around, especially in the central areas. Some visitors quickly develop beggar fatigue which is understandable, though it’s wise to remember there is absolutely no state help available. Life at the bottom can be difficult indeed. A refreshing change from Pattaya is that the traffic is manageable compared with what you are used to. Small tuk-tuks will take you around town for a couple of dollars. Interestingly, the price of petrol per litre in Cambodia is around 40% higher than in Thailand.

Accommodation & food There’s a vast number of family type guest houses with rooms averaging 10-15 dollars, but aircon could be extra. There are budget, three star and five star hotels to suit all pockets. The very top of the range could be 400 dollars a night. There’s a fairly good listing of hotels on the Siem Reap guesthouse association which cvan be logged on at www.angkorhotels.org American breakfast or buffet is usually included in the quoted rate. It’s easier to negotiate discounts in the slack season, April through September. On the eating front, there’s every conceivable cuisine on offer plus traditional Cambodian tastes. Prices are considerably cheaper than in Pattaya. Vegetarians are well catered for and the Indian cafes are excellent. French style or international cafes line the main streets with names such as The Red Piano, Ecstatic Pizza and, of course, the Foreign Correspondents Club as in Phnom Penh.

The night scene It’s a lot tamer than Pattaya and don’t expect ago-go dancer or even hostesses. But the clubs (often combining restaurant facilities) will make you feel welcome and the staff are as chatty as your mood wants. Good choices include Ivy Bar, Abacus, Temple Bar and Butterfly Garden. There’s only one gay bar in town, Linga, and the manager says it’s so tame you could take your grandmother there. True, and don’t forget your maiden aunt. Some of the bigger hotels host discos and dancing and there are no formal closing times. However, most places have died by 2 a.m.

Great beer and no restrictions

Angkor Wat A few kilometres away, there are the splendours of the many temples known collectively (if wrongly) as Angkor Wat. A thousand years ago, you would have found a city of over a million people, perhaps the largest urban structure in the world. The Cambodian god-kings each strove to better their ancestors in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in Angkor Wat which is surely the biggest religious edifice in the world. These temples are the heart and soul of the Cambodian kingdom, a source of inspiration and national pride to all Khmers as they rebuild their country after the terrors of the past. Exquisite carvings, mysticism, enigmatic stone smiles, giant faces – it’s all there for the asking. English speaking guides are on hand at most sites to take you round and put life into the images.

What else to do The artisan centre on the outskirts of town shows silk making from mulberry shrubs to the finished product and is well worth a visit. Some of the same gift items are on sale here at many times less than you would pay at the airport as you leave. There’s also the huge Tonle Sap lake which supplies most of the fish eaten locally and harbours a fascinating bird sanctuary. For those of a more military disposition, try the military museum just out of town which has dozens of rusting hulks of tanks and armoured cars, thousands of spent shells and gasmasks and even a couple of shot down helicopters. Summarily, they provide a potted history of troubled Cambodian history since 1945. Most of the weapons are American or Russian made and there are shrines to the war dead and to the legless and armless victims of land mines which still litter parts of the countryside. Finally, you can ask about the army shooting range about 15 kilometres out of town. Here you can shoot several rounds of an AK47 for as little as 10 dollars, although the days of the moving targets are thankfully gone. However, there is a sign which says worryingly, “Do not point at anybody or anything unless you intend to shoot them.” Amen to that.