Sunday, December 17, 2006

Cambodian-Made Catamaran Launches River Cruise With City View

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14, 2006

By Elizabeth Tomei
THE CAMBODIA DAILY


A 23-meter, gleaming white catamaran doesn't entirely fit in on the Tonle Sap. It dwarfs small fishing boats slowly trolling the waters around it and appears unusually refined in the wake of bulky tourist ferries blaring karaoke and crowded with people, bound for the shore of the Mekong River.

Cambodians on the riverfront ask if the distinguished-looking vessel, moored across from the Chroy Changvar peninsula, comes from France. But the wooden catamaran, from prow to stern, is Cambodian-designed, Cambodian-made, and Cambodian-operated. And the lifestyle onboard the craft, according to Muoy You, one of its owners, is "simply Khmer."

Muoy You's husband Khin You, an artist and architect designed "Kanika," named for the couple's daughter, as an offshore, alternate residence for the couple, who moved back to Phnom Penh in 2003 after decades spent abroad. After several months living on the boat, which was completed earlier this year, the couple decided to discreetly open their second home to the public on a reservation-only basis, beginning Nov 25.

Guests who book ahead via e-mail can enjoy a set menu of traditional Cambodian dishes for breakfast, lunch or dinner, or choose from an array of onboard services that range from yoga and French classes to flute lessons and pedicures. A permanent staff of five works on the picturesque, three-level boat, which is capable of seating 76 guests.

The atmosphere sounds extravagant—and indeed, is something for which most would expect to pay a hefty sum. But prices vary widely onboard Kanika. Yoga classes are free, and set meals range in price from $5 to $15, including transport from the riverfront in a small white dinghy.

Opening Kanika on a reservation basis only means that food and electricity are not wasted, Muoy You said. On Wednesday, she brought over a solar-powered oven that a friend fashioned for her, which she positioned on the deck.

"It cooked rice perfectly," she said of the oven's trial run in Phnom Penh.

Muoy You, who also operates a pre-school in Phnom Penh, says she is not concerned about making money from Kanika and is decidedly avoiding making it a luxury establishment.

"The main purpose [of the boat) is cultural and educational.... There is a common belief [among Cambodians now] that to be happy you have to be rich," she said.

Muoy You, 59, grew up in a house on Sisowath Quay.

In 1972, at 25, she left Cambodia to study in France, where she met her husband. For more than three decades, Mouy You traversed several continents, living in Sudan and Ivory Coast, where she taught French, and in Qatar, Belgium and England before returning to Cambodia with Khin You. The couple have four grown children.

Muoy You said she returned in 2003 to find that traditional Cambodian values of living simply and in harmony with nature have been overshadowed by a hunger for extravagant wealth.

"Cambodians have to think differently about themselves," Muoy You said, adding that there is now a pervasive belief that "anything Western is good," and conversely, that anything Cambodian is cheap or low-quality.

A visit to Kanika may restore self-esteem to Cambodians and encourage them to consider quality of life over material wealth, Muoy You said.

Though the couple invested a large amount of money in the boat, "it cost less than a [Toyota] Land Cruiser," she said.

Kanika has seen few customers so far, and the boat is still used mostly by close friends of the owners. The boat's first customers on Nov 25 were a young Cambodian couple celebrating a birthday, and the vessel's maiden voyage will be Dec 25 to Koh Oknha Tey, 20 km down the Mekong from Phnom Penh, for a Christmas party.

Muoy You has a list of ideas for the future of Kanika, but they all stem from a simple desire.

"All of this is just an afterthought. In the beginning I just wanted to have a floating home," she said.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

What an adorable woman and spirit.

Anonymous said...

A 23 Meter (75 foot) yatch costing less than a land-cruiser?
I think someone has been creative with their accounts. For whatever reason....