By PAMELA PHANG KOOI YOONG
The Star (Malaysia)
Had enough of the tourist hordes at Angkor Wat? Then head for Sambor Prei Kuk in the sleepy town of Kompong Thom, Cambodia.
Sambor Prei Kuk, located near Kompong Thom, 150km south-east of Siem Reap, lies off the main road towards Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh.
Kompong Thom is a sleepy little town. The only hive of activity was the market place next to the Stung Sen River where we bought some brown palm sugar and Cambodian fragrant rice.
I was pleased with my purchase of brightly coloured long skirts with elastic waist bands. Until our tour guide Sambath Sao asked me why I had bought “virgin skirts”. Apparently, these skirts are worn by young virgin girls at wedding parties to “advertise” that they are still available!
Waiting for a ride: Cambodian ladies waiting for the taxi to get going.
The local “taxi” was actually an open-air wooden cart pulled by an antiquated motorbike. Its owner was an elderly man wearing spectacles with thick lenses.
He sat at the front of his taxi, one leg hitched comfortably high beside him. Ladies with their heads wrapped in cloth patiently sat on the cart waiting for it to fill before the taxi-man would start the journey to their villages.
The journey to Sambor Prei Kuk was interesting in itself. We saw no other vehicles other than a lone villager cycling into town, his bicycle laden with hand-made straw baskets. Our van kicked up thick red dust as we sped on the laterite road. A woman scrubbing her clothes nearby was oblivious to the dust that swept over her.
On the way we passed a bullock cart. As I collect animal bells, I wanted to buy the metal bells that clanged around the water buffaloes’ necks. But the two huge creatures were nervous at the presence of our van, their eyes bulging and nostrils flaring. Their owner had difficulty reining them in. Our van driver said it was too dangerous to approach the cart as the beasts were not used to vehicles and might stampede in fear.
Lest you entertain images of grand temple ruins akin to the grandeur of the awesome Angkor Wat, you’d be disappointed. Sambor Prei Kuk is a group of ancient temple ruins scattered within a shady forest. Originally called Isanapura, it pre-dates Angkor Wat and was the capital city during the reign of King Isana Varman 1, the son of King Citrasena.
Few tourists know of it. The only “horde” here was a group of Cambodian kids who rushed to our bus, hawking brightly-coloured homespun scarves at US$1(RM3.50) each.
Built at the end of the 6th century, the ruins are touted to be some of the oldest structures in the country, covering an area of 5sq km.
About 100 small temples are scattered throughout the forest. Left in the open and not maintained, some of the structures are just mere remnants of their original building – perhaps a broken wall here, a vine-choked edifice there. There are 52 temples in recognisable condition, and another 52 sites where the original structures are now buried in the ground, visible only as small hills.
All is not lost. The Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts together with the Waseda University, supported by The Foundation for Cultural Heritage and the Sumitomo Fund have started the Sambor Prei Kuk Conservation Project to restore these ruins.
Going to town: Woven baskets to sell.
As it was getting late in the evening, we decided to visit only the main sites and skip the smaller ones. Prasat Yeai Poeun is a Shiva temple built of brick, masonry, laterite and sandstone. A crumbled wall overgrown with vegetation and roots surrounds it.
The entrance is by a “doorway” made of stone slabs that serves as a gate to the whole complex. The central tower holds a tall chimney-like chute with a golden lingga (phallic symbol) called the “Smiling Siva” beneath it. Destroyed and looted by the Pol Pot regime, it was restored in 2004.
We walked on the sandy path through the forest to the next ruin, Prasat Tao, built in the 9th century by King Isana Varman 1. It is also called simply “Lion Temple” for the two huge stone lions that guard the Temple doorway. These lions have elaborately carved curls for manes and are said to be the original stone lions. They had somehow escaped the destruction and looting of the Khmer Rouge.
The outer layer of the Temple was made of laterite and some original bas relief carvings have survived the assault of natural elements. Near the Lion Temple was the pond for the King to bathe. Now, only stone steps remain, much like the Roman baths.
The main temple group known as Prasat Sambor is dedicated to Gambhireshvara, one of Shiva’s many forms. Some of the towers still retain their carvings. Many are mere ruins now covered by vegetation.
Standing guard: A lion statue at Lion Temple. —
PAMELA PHANG KOOI YOONG
As we walked further, enjoying the cool serenity of the shady trees, the small group of child peddlers had grown to 20. The original band selling scarves had been joined by older children hawking bracelets and trinkets. They were very persistent, dropping their prices to almost a quarter of the original as we neared the end of our visit.
Sambor Prei Kuk does not match the splendour of Angkor Wat. Yet its serene forests and solitude make a much welcome change from the human masses of its famous cousin.
Sambor Prei Kuk, located near Kompong Thom, 150km south-east of Siem Reap, lies off the main road towards Cambodia’s capital Phnom Penh.
Kompong Thom is a sleepy little town. The only hive of activity was the market place next to the Stung Sen River where we bought some brown palm sugar and Cambodian fragrant rice.
I was pleased with my purchase of brightly coloured long skirts with elastic waist bands. Until our tour guide Sambath Sao asked me why I had bought “virgin skirts”. Apparently, these skirts are worn by young virgin girls at wedding parties to “advertise” that they are still available!
Waiting for a ride: Cambodian ladies waiting for the taxi to get going.The local “taxi” was actually an open-air wooden cart pulled by an antiquated motorbike. Its owner was an elderly man wearing spectacles with thick lenses.
He sat at the front of his taxi, one leg hitched comfortably high beside him. Ladies with their heads wrapped in cloth patiently sat on the cart waiting for it to fill before the taxi-man would start the journey to their villages.
The journey to Sambor Prei Kuk was interesting in itself. We saw no other vehicles other than a lone villager cycling into town, his bicycle laden with hand-made straw baskets. Our van kicked up thick red dust as we sped on the laterite road. A woman scrubbing her clothes nearby was oblivious to the dust that swept over her.
On the way we passed a bullock cart. As I collect animal bells, I wanted to buy the metal bells that clanged around the water buffaloes’ necks. But the two huge creatures were nervous at the presence of our van, their eyes bulging and nostrils flaring. Their owner had difficulty reining them in. Our van driver said it was too dangerous to approach the cart as the beasts were not used to vehicles and might stampede in fear.
Lest you entertain images of grand temple ruins akin to the grandeur of the awesome Angkor Wat, you’d be disappointed. Sambor Prei Kuk is a group of ancient temple ruins scattered within a shady forest. Originally called Isanapura, it pre-dates Angkor Wat and was the capital city during the reign of King Isana Varman 1, the son of King Citrasena.
Few tourists know of it. The only “horde” here was a group of Cambodian kids who rushed to our bus, hawking brightly-coloured homespun scarves at US$1(RM3.50) each.
Built at the end of the 6th century, the ruins are touted to be some of the oldest structures in the country, covering an area of 5sq km.
About 100 small temples are scattered throughout the forest. Left in the open and not maintained, some of the structures are just mere remnants of their original building – perhaps a broken wall here, a vine-choked edifice there. There are 52 temples in recognisable condition, and another 52 sites where the original structures are now buried in the ground, visible only as small hills.
All is not lost. The Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts together with the Waseda University, supported by The Foundation for Cultural Heritage and the Sumitomo Fund have started the Sambor Prei Kuk Conservation Project to restore these ruins.
Going to town: Woven baskets to sell.As it was getting late in the evening, we decided to visit only the main sites and skip the smaller ones. Prasat Yeai Poeun is a Shiva temple built of brick, masonry, laterite and sandstone. A crumbled wall overgrown with vegetation and roots surrounds it.
The entrance is by a “doorway” made of stone slabs that serves as a gate to the whole complex. The central tower holds a tall chimney-like chute with a golden lingga (phallic symbol) called the “Smiling Siva” beneath it. Destroyed and looted by the Pol Pot regime, it was restored in 2004.
We walked on the sandy path through the forest to the next ruin, Prasat Tao, built in the 9th century by King Isana Varman 1. It is also called simply “Lion Temple” for the two huge stone lions that guard the Temple doorway. These lions have elaborately carved curls for manes and are said to be the original stone lions. They had somehow escaped the destruction and looting of the Khmer Rouge.
The outer layer of the Temple was made of laterite and some original bas relief carvings have survived the assault of natural elements. Near the Lion Temple was the pond for the King to bathe. Now, only stone steps remain, much like the Roman baths.
The main temple group known as Prasat Sambor is dedicated to Gambhireshvara, one of Shiva’s many forms. Some of the towers still retain their carvings. Many are mere ruins now covered by vegetation.
Standing guard: A lion statue at Lion Temple. —PAMELA PHANG KOOI YOONG
As we walked further, enjoying the cool serenity of the shady trees, the small group of child peddlers had grown to 20. The original band selling scarves had been joined by older children hawking bracelets and trinkets. They were very persistent, dropping their prices to almost a quarter of the original as we neared the end of our visit.
Sambor Prei Kuk does not match the splendour of Angkor Wat. Yet its serene forests and solitude make a much welcome change from the human masses of its famous cousin.
Getting there
Kompong Thom is located on the main NH6 Highway from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. There are plenty of buses that run between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. There are also what the locals call “Tomorrow Die” fast-speed taxis that cost US$4 (RM14).
DISTANCE Sambor Prei Kuk is 31km from Kompong Thom. It takes about an hour to get there. If you do not have your own transport, you can hire a tuk-tuk taxi for about 5,000 Cambodian rials (about RM5) per person.
ENTRANCE FEE US$3 (RM10.50) per person.
No comments:
Post a Comment