History for sale: Burmese sandstone figures from the 16th century. (Photo: Tom Cockrem)The thrill is in the hunt
July 15, 2007
Source: The Sun-Herald (Australia)
Think there are bargain antiques to be had in Bangkok? Tom Cockrem tells how to get one without being had.
IT'S TRUE, you can't always be sure that what you buy is genuinely old; and yes, you can pay through the nose for a piece that's meant to be. But when it comes to antique shopping in Bangkok, for the collector - avid and addicted - there can be no more fun than this, anywhere.
To start with, there are simply so many outlets - literally scores of them. And they are fairly well concentrated too. Then there's the variety. Bangkok is a clearing house for treasures from all parts of Indochina - Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. It's where all the very finest art works go.
Yes, the thrill of antique shopping in Bangkok is in the hunt. And it's a thrill not reserved for big money. The art enthusiast and casual browser will see the better shops are miniature museums - very gorgeous ones - where an excellent schooling in oriental art and history can be gained for free.
I have been poking about in Bangkok's antique shops for longer than I care to remember. Hardly ever have I entered one and not found at least one piece that is simply screaming to be bought - a 14th century U-Thong-style bronze seated Buddha, a Ching Dynasty Chinese teapot with ornate brass handle, an intricately woven Hmong backpack, an elegant caledon ceramic from Chiang Mai.
I generally limit my hunting range to the giant elongated U described by three big thoroughfares: Surawong Road, Silom Road and New Road. These straddle the Sathon and Bangrak districts in Bangkok's south-east. Falling just outside the base of the U is the city's biggest antique shopping complex - River City. It sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River a little south-west of the Surawong and New Road intersection. More than 70 dealers have their largest outlets here. But let's get back to Surawong.
Two fine antique shops are found at the northern end of this long, busy road, south of the nightlife district of Patpong. These are Neold Collection and Erawan Antiques. Neold is run by an interior designer, whose skills are amply brought to bear in the shop. The more sober Erawan takes pride in its Ching Dynasty porcelains and Burmese polychrome woodcarvings. Both places are very well established and guarantee the authenticity of their wares.
From here it's perhaps best to go straight to River City by taxi.
Two of the most reputable shops in the complex are the Fine Arts and the Old Time, both on the fourth floor. The former houses a fine collection of Khmer stone figures and jewellery, and takes special pride in its collection of heirloom silk textiles done by the Neua people in northern Laos. The Old Time is noted for its architectural ornaments, traditional Thai paintings and antique furniture from both the orient and Europe.
Folk art collectors will delight in the Lao carvings and puppets in the Verandah. This is another shop whose highly creative displays make it a joy to browse around. Good Luck Chinese Porcelains is crammed with a stunning array of mainly blue and white Ching Dynasty pieces.
New Road is Bangkok's most traditional antique strip. Crossing it might mean taking your life in your hands. But it's worth it just to see Lek Gallery, which has three floors of almost life-size bronze and wooden Burmese Buddha figures. Lek has also opened a second outlet - even more sumptuous - on the road's southern side. Art And Antiques next door almost succeeds in rivaling the grandeur of its neighbour, and specialises in Chinese furnishings and ceramics.
At the other end of the scale is the Betel Box. Though unlikely to gain an award for its decor, this tiny fluro-lit outlet has definitely the most extensive and fascinating collection of these curious little silver and wooden containers available in Bangkok.
Then there is Anna Antiques. To find this local icon you turn left out of New Road into Silom. Anna is a straight-shooting dealer, and quick to point out that all of what you see on the ground floor - a jungle of bronze and sandstone figures - are reproductions. Assessing their quality, you are stunned to learn this fact. Such is the skill of the local Thai artisans.
Silom Road runs parallel to Surawong. To see what it has to offer, you really have to walk. A little way past Anna and on the opposite side is Silom Village - a secluded retreat crammed with craft shops and restaurants, plus a couple of "antique" shops. But you mainly come for home wares and craft. Silom does contain several serious antique shops, King Antiques, Kittichai Antiques among them.
The Silom Road promenade is long. But relief is in sight. The street's northern end is studded with super "cool" coffee shops. Here you can luxuriate in air-conditioned comfort - cappuccino in hand - and congratulate yourself on the purchases you've made.
You might then ask yourself "Have I been jipped?" And there's just a chance you have. To minimise the risk, it's best to ask the proprietor for a written guarantee, describing the object, its style, age and condition, as well as the price. You should also bear in mind that religious artifacts - Buddha figures and the like - require special permission for export. Reputable proprietors can assist with this as well.
But if your 18th century Mandalay carved Buddha turns out to be a 2007 edition that has done its time in mud or even buffalo urine, at least you have the consolation of knowing that many before you have been similarly duped.
It may at last be best to do as many do: shun pricey "originals" and settle for the likes of an Anna reproduction - then tell your friends it's not.
TRIP NOTES
* Getting there: Thai Airways flies to Bangkok from Sydney twice daily. Phone 1300 651 960 or see http://www.thaiairways.com.au.
* When to go: The cooler season is from November to February.
* Read: Lonely Planet has a current edition on Thailand.
* Recommended shopping areas: Highlights at River City include the Fine Arts (antiques and textiles), the Old Time (antiques and furnishings), Good Luck (Chinese porcelain), Hong Galleries (Chinese porcelain and oriental furnishings), and the Verandah (folk art). Visit Surawong for Neold Collection (architectural ornaments, antiques and craft) and Erawan (Chinese porcelain, Burmese carvings). On New Road, check out Lek Gallery (Khmer and Burmese sculpture) and Betel Box (betel boxes and old silver). At Silom Road, it is worth visiting Anna (reproductions, genuine antiques upstairs).
IT'S TRUE, you can't always be sure that what you buy is genuinely old; and yes, you can pay through the nose for a piece that's meant to be. But when it comes to antique shopping in Bangkok, for the collector - avid and addicted - there can be no more fun than this, anywhere.
To start with, there are simply so many outlets - literally scores of them. And they are fairly well concentrated too. Then there's the variety. Bangkok is a clearing house for treasures from all parts of Indochina - Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. It's where all the very finest art works go.
Yes, the thrill of antique shopping in Bangkok is in the hunt. And it's a thrill not reserved for big money. The art enthusiast and casual browser will see the better shops are miniature museums - very gorgeous ones - where an excellent schooling in oriental art and history can be gained for free.
I have been poking about in Bangkok's antique shops for longer than I care to remember. Hardly ever have I entered one and not found at least one piece that is simply screaming to be bought - a 14th century U-Thong-style bronze seated Buddha, a Ching Dynasty Chinese teapot with ornate brass handle, an intricately woven Hmong backpack, an elegant caledon ceramic from Chiang Mai.
I generally limit my hunting range to the giant elongated U described by three big thoroughfares: Surawong Road, Silom Road and New Road. These straddle the Sathon and Bangrak districts in Bangkok's south-east. Falling just outside the base of the U is the city's biggest antique shopping complex - River City. It sits on the banks of the Chao Phraya River a little south-west of the Surawong and New Road intersection. More than 70 dealers have their largest outlets here. But let's get back to Surawong.
Two fine antique shops are found at the northern end of this long, busy road, south of the nightlife district of Patpong. These are Neold Collection and Erawan Antiques. Neold is run by an interior designer, whose skills are amply brought to bear in the shop. The more sober Erawan takes pride in its Ching Dynasty porcelains and Burmese polychrome woodcarvings. Both places are very well established and guarantee the authenticity of their wares.
From here it's perhaps best to go straight to River City by taxi.
Two of the most reputable shops in the complex are the Fine Arts and the Old Time, both on the fourth floor. The former houses a fine collection of Khmer stone figures and jewellery, and takes special pride in its collection of heirloom silk textiles done by the Neua people in northern Laos. The Old Time is noted for its architectural ornaments, traditional Thai paintings and antique furniture from both the orient and Europe.
Folk art collectors will delight in the Lao carvings and puppets in the Verandah. This is another shop whose highly creative displays make it a joy to browse around. Good Luck Chinese Porcelains is crammed with a stunning array of mainly blue and white Ching Dynasty pieces.
New Road is Bangkok's most traditional antique strip. Crossing it might mean taking your life in your hands. But it's worth it just to see Lek Gallery, which has three floors of almost life-size bronze and wooden Burmese Buddha figures. Lek has also opened a second outlet - even more sumptuous - on the road's southern side. Art And Antiques next door almost succeeds in rivaling the grandeur of its neighbour, and specialises in Chinese furnishings and ceramics.
At the other end of the scale is the Betel Box. Though unlikely to gain an award for its decor, this tiny fluro-lit outlet has definitely the most extensive and fascinating collection of these curious little silver and wooden containers available in Bangkok.
Then there is Anna Antiques. To find this local icon you turn left out of New Road into Silom. Anna is a straight-shooting dealer, and quick to point out that all of what you see on the ground floor - a jungle of bronze and sandstone figures - are reproductions. Assessing their quality, you are stunned to learn this fact. Such is the skill of the local Thai artisans.
Silom Road runs parallel to Surawong. To see what it has to offer, you really have to walk. A little way past Anna and on the opposite side is Silom Village - a secluded retreat crammed with craft shops and restaurants, plus a couple of "antique" shops. But you mainly come for home wares and craft. Silom does contain several serious antique shops, King Antiques, Kittichai Antiques among them.
The Silom Road promenade is long. But relief is in sight. The street's northern end is studded with super "cool" coffee shops. Here you can luxuriate in air-conditioned comfort - cappuccino in hand - and congratulate yourself on the purchases you've made.
You might then ask yourself "Have I been jipped?" And there's just a chance you have. To minimise the risk, it's best to ask the proprietor for a written guarantee, describing the object, its style, age and condition, as well as the price. You should also bear in mind that religious artifacts - Buddha figures and the like - require special permission for export. Reputable proprietors can assist with this as well.
But if your 18th century Mandalay carved Buddha turns out to be a 2007 edition that has done its time in mud or even buffalo urine, at least you have the consolation of knowing that many before you have been similarly duped.
It may at last be best to do as many do: shun pricey "originals" and settle for the likes of an Anna reproduction - then tell your friends it's not.
TRIP NOTES
* Getting there: Thai Airways flies to Bangkok from Sydney twice daily. Phone 1300 651 960 or see http://www.thaiairways.com.au.
* When to go: The cooler season is from November to February.
* Read: Lonely Planet has a current edition on Thailand.
* Recommended shopping areas: Highlights at River City include the Fine Arts (antiques and textiles), the Old Time (antiques and furnishings), Good Luck (Chinese porcelain), Hong Galleries (Chinese porcelain and oriental furnishings), and the Verandah (folk art). Visit Surawong for Neold Collection (architectural ornaments, antiques and craft) and Erawan (Chinese porcelain, Burmese carvings). On New Road, check out Lek Gallery (Khmer and Burmese sculpture) and Betel Box (betel boxes and old silver). At Silom Road, it is worth visiting Anna (reproductions, genuine antiques upstairs).
4 comments:
Hun Sen is Brainless.
That is an under-statement 8:12AM. Hun Sen, Viet puppet, is rather the criminal of the 21st Century: killing khmer off for the Viet-khmer illegally emigrated and naturalized to make up the majority and taking over Cambodia as the Federation of Indochina, the dream and the Vision of Ho Chi Minh...Enough said?
Yes he has evil and traitor brain! Ah Hun Xen!
Yes he has evil and traitor brain! Ah Hun Xen!
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