Monday, February 11, 2008

Ngieng San-touch Yuon: A poem by Yim Guech Se and Sam Vichea

Poem by Yim Guech Se (on the web at http://kamnapyimguechse.blogspot.com)
and Sam Vichea (on the web at http://kamnapkumnou.blogspot.com)
Posted by Socheata at 4:53 PM
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2 comments:

Sacrava said...

A great Poem.
Thanks for your devotion to Khmer Nation.

6:44 PM
Anonymous said...

http://www.khmerkrom.net/?q=node/1229
What Vietnamese People Are Saying About Themselves and Khmer
By kkneditor - February 11th, 2008
Tagged: Contributors
By Son Thach

Recently I was on a bus trip from Prey Nakor (Ho Chi Minh City) to Preah Trapeng (Tra Vinh). As an experienced traveler, I often travel alone. Being squashed between two guys, the man to my right, Vu is a smartly dressed with a baby faced declared himself to be 28 years old.

The other man to my left, Duc appears to be at about the same age with stylish hair and a never ending grind on his face. Half way through the four hours journey, the conversation got started. Without revealing to them that I'm Khmer, I sat there mostly listening and occasionally join in the conversation when question is directed to me. For the next two hours gave me a surprising insight into the perception of Vietnamese on Khmer.

Vu said he has been doing business in Cambodia and often travel to Thailand. At first when arriving in Cambodia he said he was scared to be revealed as Vietnamese because he was told that Khmer does not like Vietnamese. Curious on why that is the case, his Thai friend have told him that Khmer are fearful that Vietnamese will steal their land. At this point I said "Yes, that's exactly right".

With some knowledge of history, Vu describe how Vietnam territory used to be only from current day Nha Trang northwards and have subsequently invaded Champa and Kampuchea. He credited this victory to Tran Hung Dao (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tran_Hung_Dao) and subsequent Vietnamese rulers for literally "chopping off (Khmer) necks".

Beside other trash talks, calling Khmer as Miên every single time, and the expected to how Vietnam is better than Cambodia – one thing he said that's true is the level of corruptions - he told us one policeman can work and feed the whole family comfortably from the money he collected. Vu described how one day when he was talking to his friend (in Vietnamese) on the street of Phnom Penh, a police officer approached them and introduced himself – the policeman is a Vietnamese who had come to Cambodia gave him a lot of insights into Cambodian.

Duc, who has also been talking a lot too, but not about Cambodia but about China because he visited China recently – he said hotels room in China smells bad and had triggered Vu to say hotel room in Cambodia smells bad too, plus Khmer house also smells bad. I was trying to ask why that is, they said maybe in Cambodia they burn a lot of incenses!?

As to be expected in man's conversation, there has to be talk about women. Duc said Khmer woman have pretty face and Vu added that's true as they have the face of the Indian. But for Khmer guys, Vu said they are very attracted to Vietnamese woman.

As our journey coming to an end we drove pass the many beautiful Khmer temples. I was thinking to myself, thank goodness I'm nearly home. Although I didn't like many of what Vu has said, I was thankful that he told his other Vietnamese friends that they are thieves who stole our land and murdered our people.

Our people in Kampuchea-Krom are living in poverty with no ending insights. I was told that when Khmer Krom overseas makes noises, the Vietnamese government actually listens and took action to reduce restrictions on them. But this is very small steps and more needed to be done.

I hope you will come to visit Kampuchea-Krom and help our people anyway you can. When you are here, be alert but do not be alarmed. Kampuchea-Krom is our home.

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The Cambodian Scene http://www.cambodianscene.com

Forgotten Treasures of Khmer Culture in the Mekong Delta
Words & photographs by Moeun Nhean
SEAPA Fellowship 2007
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Mighty and vast, the Khmer empire, stretched across modern Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam. It left cultural and architectural legacies throughout South-east Asia and, though Thailand has used this inheritance to lure tourists, historical sites in Southern Vietnam remain practically unknown.
Ancient Khmer architecture has mostly survived unscathed in southern Vietnam. The local Khmer Krom people practice Khmer Buddhism in temples very different to those of ethnic Vietnamese. These places are becoming hot tourism destinations.
Sites in the Mekong Delta, such Long An, Tien Giang, Ving Long, Tra Vinh, Bac Lieu, and Soc Trang, are the most popular. Picturesque villages, traditional farming methods, and verdant fields charm all who visit. The focal points of this emerald land are the sparkling golden roofs of elaborate Khmer Krom pagodas.
Soc Trang province, known in Khmer as Khleang province (‘warehouse’ or ‘storage place’), could be seen as a vessel of traditional Khmer culture, preserved unchanged since the province was ceded to Vietnam by the French in 1949. There are a total of around 500 Khmer pagodas in South Vietnam, of which Soc Trang has around 100 ancient Khmer pagodas. Most are preserved in their original condition, without the modernisation common in Cambodia.
"In this area, there are many beautiful Khmer pagodas," said Miss. Thach Long, Guide Officer of Soc Trang province. "The most popular sites among visitors are Wat Khleang, Wat Serey Dejo Mohatub, Wat Sa Lon and the provincial museum."
The number of tourists is increasing.
"During the last few years, at least 300 to 500 visitors per month came to visit this area," said Long. "Most are European, American, Japanese, and Asian."
Khleang pagoda, Soc Trang province was built in 1533. It has kept its original architectural style and decoration. "This is one of the most interesting pagodas because it was built from wood," said Long. "Fantastic Khmer traditional carvings and beautiful painted murals still remain. There have never been big scale renovations, only minor repairs."
The 50-something Mr. Eang was a monk here for almost 8 years. He said the Khleang pagoda had a reputation as a cultural centre for centuries as Khmer monks from all over the Mekong delta came to study the tenets of Buddhism.
"This school was run strictly according to Buddhist rules," said Eang.
Just a short distance from Khleang pagoda is another pagoda named ‘Serey Dejo Mohatub’, though many know it simply as ‘bat pagoda’. Built in 1569, this architectural masterpiece features decoration incorporating dragons, garaudas, tortoises, and phoenixes. The pagoda is also a haven for thousands of flying fox bats (Pteropus). The sheltered grounds, shaded by towering fruit trees, provide the perfect bat habitat (though the apparently bats shun the fruit from the temple trees). In 1999, the pagoda was recognized by the Ministry of Culture and Information of Vietnam as a cultural and historical relic.
Egbert Weiss, a German tourist, spent hours wandering around Mohatub pagoda. He was impressed. "I never saw what a real fruit bat looked like, except on television," he said. "It was interesting to see and hear the bats close up." Weiss and his tour group spent 3 days in the Mekong delta visiting plantations and fisheries as well as pagodas. "It is unbelievable that so many ancient wooden pagodas are here," Weiss exclaimed. "The constructions are still strong even though they are 500 years old."
Weiss was also astounded by the quality of the painted scenes inside the pagoda. "The paintings on the pagoda walls are amazingly artistic," he said. "They are still colourful even though they are very old."
‘Sa Lon’ pagoda lies 12 km outside of Soc Trang town. The temple is distinct, with walls and pillars studded with thousands of plates, bowls and cups. Originally given by local people for monks’ use, as more and more donations were made, monks used them to decorate the pagoda, giving it a unique appearance.
The pagodas are more than empty relics however. Still used by the devoutly Buddhist Khmer Krom people, the temples are living monuments. ‘Kampong Mean Chey Tuek Pray’ pagoda, located in Long Phu district, about 20 km from Soc Trang,, gives an insight into the daily life of Khmer Krom Buddhists.
Every religious holiday elderly women don white shirts and multi-coloured Hol or Phamoung skirts and amble towards the temple, betel nut boxes containing incense, candles, and flowers clutched in their wrinkled hands. Their male escorts inch along, careful not to spill their bowls stacked high with rice, soup, sweet desserts and fruits.
When the food has been delivered to the Sala Thoama Saphea (hall where Dharma – the Buddha’s teachings – are taught and discussed), worshippers make their way to the Preah Vihara (east facing hall containing a temple’s largest Buddha statue). Here everyone sits according to their grade of Dharma knowledge [see ‘10 Rules’]. The most senior sit at the front, where long curling columns of incense smoke swirl around the golden Buddha statue. Monks lead the loud Pali chants that echo from the hall into the sultry dawn.
"The separation of seats into different areas is to respect those people who have practiced Buddhism for a long time," explained a wizened grand father, one of the many worshippers. He added that Khmer Krom people are devout in their beliefs, unlike many ethnic Vietnamese.
"We follow our religion precisely as our ancestors did," he said. "We like to honour our ancestors and keep our identity as Khmer Krom."
Preah Dejakun Thach Nong, Head Monk of Peam Boun pagoda agreed. "Almost all Khmer Krom people follow Theravada Buddhism," he said. "They love their religion. They preserve the traditions in their lifestyle and society. Even people who don’t have money to offer the pagoda always give what they can – things like food and accessories needed by the monks and the pagoda.
Despite the relative poverty of the 40 Khmer Krom families who sponsor the pagoda, refurbishments that took 10 years have just been completed.
"The most of the funds and materials came from local people, even though they are only subsistence farmers and fishermen," said Nong. "People from So Trang town donated construction materials such as cement and iron. Some donations came from outside the local area."
Pagodas in the Mekong Delta are accessible, their doors always open to the local community. On festive days like Chol Chnam Thmey (Khmer New Year celebration), Ok Am-bok (Moon Prayer), Bon Om Tuk (Water Festival), or Pchum Benn (Ancestor Festival) the temples are crammed with celebrants.
Mr. Chhoam Chhat, Director of the Administrative Department of the Ministry of Cults and Religious Affairs of the Royal Government of Cambodia, said there are 3,980 officially registered Buddhist pagodas, with 59,470 monks living and studying in them in the kingdom of Cambodia.
"In the past, especially in the post-Angkor era, and throughout French and Japanese colonial rule, the pagoda played an important role in the field of education," he said. "Religious ceremonies and other national festivals are held there. Even today, in almost every village, the tradition of building schools in or near pagodas continues."
Finally, the ancient and noble culture of Khmer Krom is beginning to get the attention it deserves, though its future depends on the ideas of the young.
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---Sidebar story---
THE 10 RULES
Attending a ceremony in Kampong Meanchey Teuk Pray is not as simple as finding a spot to sit – position is dictated by a level of knowledge, known in Khmer as 'Sil'. "The first few lines are 'Sil 10', the middle line 'Sil 8' and the rear parts 'Sil 5'," said a local villager.
Preah Phikho Sam Sinan, a Phnom Penh based monk, said that 'Sil' are organised into three categories – 'Sil 5' is the normal state of a practicisng Buddhist, while 'Sil 8' and 'Sil 10' are for more devout worshippers. Most people never reach the upper levels, he said, as the rules dictating membership get stricter with each level. The numbers refer to the number of rules that must be adhered to he explained. 'Sil 5' means following the first 5 rules and so on.
Sil 1 – Pana-ti-pata – Do not kill of animals or people.
Sil 2 – Attinea-teanea – Do not steal, destroy, or covet.
Sil 3 – Kame Somachha-jare – No infidelity.
Sil 4 – Mussa Vieta – Honesty in all speech.
Sil 5 – Sora Meryak – No intoxication.
Sil 6 – Vikala Phhouchaneaha – No greediness or eating after midday.
Sil 7 – Nachaky Tak Vea – No dancing, singing, or taking part in raucous entertainments.
Sil 8 – Mealea Kunthak – No vanity.
Sil 9 – Ucha Sayanak – Must not sit or stand in a higher position than one’s social betters or elders.
Sil 10 – Cheat Roub Tarak – No touching of any kind of jewellery or precious metals.
Though very few people follow all 10 rules, Sam said many strive to attain a high level of discipline. "If all people reached Sil 5," he added, "the world would be happy, harmonious, and peaceful."
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Another article by Moeun Nhean about Mekong River
Downstream Countries
Downstream Countries
Words and photograph by Moeun Nhean
IPS Mekong Fellowship 2005-2006
No one is yet able to foresee how badly affected Cambodia and Vietnam’s downstream waters of the Mekong River or the Tonle Sap Lake will become. Upstream countries like China have built dams, and many locals in both Cambodia and Vietnam, are voicing concerns about the environmental damage caused by the decreased water levels flowing down from the north.
Dams are not the only problem, growing populations in Cambodian and Vietnamese floating villages are creating more waste and the environment is paying the price. Some organizations are taking steps to turn this around and many living on the country’s great waterways are learning to appreciate the value of their environment.
Nguyen Thanh Ky is a 37-year-old fish farmer at Chau Doc in southwest Vietnam. Thanh Ky says that in the last few years, fish farmers have been facing a string of problems.
"Fish are not surviving in the bé [fish farm]. Five years ago, the fishing was good, and I never had problems with fish dying in large quantities," Nguyen says.
"Today, the number of fish in most bé in this area is decreasing and many of the bé are quite empty of fish. I don’t know what will4 become of our lifestyle in the future. Will there even be a future for floating fish farmers like us?"
"Some people have told me that fish farming is suffering because of water pollution, and even if we changed the type of fish we breed, the result would be the same: they’d die."
Kompong Loung commune chief Kev Sovannareth believes that with the population of floating villages in Cambodia growing at the rate they are, the environment is seriously at risk.
"I remember floating villages with just a couple of hundred people living on them, but now there are many thousands; ten times the amount," Sovannareth says.
"This poses a great risk to the water around the villages now, the water used to be so clear. At some spots you could see the bottom of the lake and fish swimming," he says.
"Many fish have not been sighted for years now; fish like the chpin, the chra-keng [Barbus siaja], a fish found in swamps and flooded rice fields, the freshwater Elephant fish [Oxyeleotris marmorata] and the pruol [Cyprin laveon]."
"The fish are dying because plastic and oil are floating into their habitats … Plastic bags are floating about everywhere on the lake and around the village. They disrupt fishing activities all the time, and it’s popular nowadays to use those plastic bags isn’t it? It used to be the opposite, people would just use banana or lotus leaves.
"But the most frightening thing for me to see is the pollution from engines, from the oil and petroleum leaking into the water. Fish are choking. People’s health is affected and every year many of my villagers get skin diseases. I don’t know what kinds of diseases they are or from where they’re getting them from. But I have an idea, though: pollution," Sovannareth says.
Further south in Kompong Svay district, Kompong Thom province, another commune chief, Heng Monour, is worried about water shortages and illness too. "Many of the commune people get the same stomach diseases and fevers. What if there was a dangerous epidemic of cholera?" Monour asks.
"The river is much lower and our commune hasn’t seen any of the Mekong dolphins for the last five years now. We used to see them here every season," he says.
"The amount of rain hasn’t changed in these parts, but the Mekong is just not flowing from the Tonle Sap Lake in as great a quantity as it used to. When I heard news saying that further upstream, the Mekong River was being dammed, I put two and two together and figured that our water levels are lower now because of the dams."
In a story published in The Cambodian Scene Magazine (July/August 2005), the water levels of the Tonle Sap and its nearby tributary the Dang Tong Lake, were so low in May 2005 that residents in the area discovered an ancient tree, claimed to date back to the 11th century.
Coordinator for Environmental Education at NGO Osmose Keo Yada says Osmose selected Koh Chi Vaing commune in a trial to educate the residents about their river environment and to teach them how to look after it. Koh Chi Vaing is situated on a remote area of the Tonle Sap; people living there are poor and earn money on, and around the lake, fishing, hunting and cutting trees to sell.
"A few generations ago, the water in the Tonle Sap Lake was clean enough to drink, now people get skin diseases from just bathing in it," Keo says.
Osmose, established in 1999, is one of many non-profit organizations working around the Tonle Sap Lake, who are educating these floating village residents about how the future of the lake, and their livelihoods will be affected, if they do not change their habits and protect their environment now.
Besides Osmose, two other NGOs are playing a role in helping protect the Tonle Sap, like the Australian-based Live and Learn - Environmental Education (LLEE) and local organization Mlup Baitong.
Live and Learn country director Chum Som Onn says the organization selected five provinces around the lake to undertake training courses in primary schools: Kompong Chhnang, Pursat, Battambang, Siem Reap and Kompong Thom.
"Live and Learn also work with the local media to broadcast news related to the lake environment. Our targets are those living on the floating villages because they are the people who are affected," Som Onn says.
Keo Yada says the organization’s goal is to educate the younger generations to love and respect their surrounds. "We teach five sorts of lessons to children: forestry, fish, animals, water and pollution. Osmose has already taught over 700 students from public schools and over 200 children who do not attend school. We also teach floating village people how to make floating gardens to grow vegetables," she says.
"Fewer people are chopping down important trees, or hunting rare birds and animals now. They are beginning to understand the importance of looking after the environment. They are also throwing less rubbish into the water, particularly plastic items,” Yada said.
"As for the lake’s water levels, in the six years I’ve worked for Osmose on the Tonle Sap, I’ve noticed the flood season happen slowly, there is less water; while the dry season sucks up all the water very quickly," Keo Yada says. She blames the lower levels on the floodplains on the upstream damming of the Mekong.
Member of the Economic, Social and Cultural Observation Unit (OBSES) at the Office of the Council of Ministers Touch Seang Tana says before the dams were built, the Mekong flooded at high levels several times a year.
"All that water covered a huge area, providing irrigation, sustenance and life, for thousands of people and animals in the area. With lowering levels this could destroy the area," Seang Tana says.



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12:41 AM

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