Sunday, May 04, 2008

"Most of the people in power are corrupt": Phnom Penh tour guide

Food stalls at Psar Thimei, Phnom Penh

Corruption AND Development and lots to marvel at!

People and Events
By Nan
The Island (Sri Lanka)

"Most of the people in power are corrupt" said our tour guide in Phnom Penh. "There is such a lot of poverty but there are extremely rich people too."

"Corruption remains a way of life in Cambodia. It is the leadership that must set an example but right now that example is take, take, take, and it goes on from the highest government official to the lowest paid civil servant. Sometimes it is overt, but it is increasingly covert with ministers signing off government land to private companies for a steal and contracts being awarded to shadowy business figures with close connections to the leadership. At its worst, it has seen the partial privatization of Cambodia’s heritage, with new private roads being bulldozed through to ancient temple sites and hefty tolls levied …But it is not only the locals who know how to play the game." This from the Lonely Planet Guide, 5th edition (undated but very recent). Nick Ray mentions the parallel state that is the NGO world, which has helped in poverty alleviation but NGO and multinational individuals and foreign consultants "are riding the gravy train to Geneva, stashing six figure, tax-free annual salaries, driving the latest 4WDs and renting houses with seven bathrooms."

"The depressing reality of politics in Cambodia is that the political elite have consistently and wholeheartedly betrayed the long-term interests of their people for short-term personal gain. Entering politics is not about national service but self-service."

Is the Lonely Planet Guide (LPG) and we talking here of Cambodia or Sri Lanka? Listened to and read about, Sri Lanka was invariably substituted for the name Cambodia. Is rampant corruption in the midst of stark poverty a disease of developing countries? Corruption there all over the world, but not to the extent it exists in the poorest of poor nations where, staring at malnourished children and poverty burdened women, the well-heeled, well-fed cheat, steal and grab and live it up. This is so in Sri Lanka too.

A Lankan businessman resident in Siem Reap had this to say: "We had a minister coming over to talk tourism, and trade probably. He did no business talking, no meetings. Stayed in the best hotel with a number of people brought along, ate, drank and had a wonderful time and went back." Such a one exists no longer to parasite on the taxpayer of the country, which means everyone, since all pay in one way or another to keep our government going and ministers having a jolly good time.

The LPG introduction to the country ends thus: "That Cambodia has made progress in spite of its government and not because of it comes down to the Cambodian people: their tenacity, good humour and instinct for survival. Most Cambodians are hardworking and honest." Sadly, this cannot be said of us Sri Lankans, in general.

PM Hun Sen has proved himself a survivor, personally and politically, having lost an eye in the battle for Phnom Penh in 1975. He defected to Vietnam in 1977 and was elected PM in 1997. He’s been in power since then.

Tourism

The highest forex earner is tourism. Trippers pour into Cambodia. This month is not the high season since it’s very hot but streams of tourists were everywhere and like a flood in Siem Reep. South Koreans head the list of tourists, our travel guides said, with Japanese coming a close second and then the Europeans. Sri Lankans too straggle along, but most do the three country tour – Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Too expensive for yours truly!

It’s hot with intermittent showers just now. The monsoon will start around July/August and that means floods and rice growing.

Naturally tourism is encouraged and visas seem to be given freely. Trouble getting one is that Cambodia is not dpl represented in Sri Lanka. You need to send your passport and application to New Delhi and twiddle your thumbs for two weeks, or get it at Bangkok. Some apply for their visas at the immigration counter in Phnom Penh and we witnessed success - three women. Both Bangkok and Cambodia seem to be more careful with men applicants.

The route we followed was: go to Bangkok, visit the Sri Lankan embassy, get a letter and go to the Cambodian embassy. We were told we’d have to submit applications in the morning and go for the passports with visas stamped in the evening. Not us six women. The Sri Lankan embassy had already sent our application and we were positively treated with courtesy at the Cambodian Embassy and so within an hour or so our visas were in hand.

A word here about the Sri Lankan Embassy and Ambassador. Prof. J B Dissanayake seems the ideal choice for this neighbouring Buddhist country with much through traffic (hopefully of only the tourist kind). Here is an excellent choice of a non-career diplomat.

He invited us in to meet him when we went to the embassy, chatted for quite a long while, offered tea and gifted a book of his to each of us, and assured us that his embassy had done all in double quick time to see that we were able to keep to our tour schedule.

Four years of hell

1974 -1979 was the Khmer Rouge regime, implementing as it did the most radical and brutal restructuring of a society ever attempted: its goal to transform this Theravada Buddhist country into a Maoist, peasant dominated agrarian cooperative. Within days of Blood Brother No I – Paris educated Pol Pot taking power, the entire population of the capital and provincial towns, including children, the sick and elderly, was forced to march out to the countryside to undertake slave labour in mobile work teams for 12 to 15 hours per day. All intellectuals and the educated were brutally tortured and murdered.

Reminded us of the strategy to uproot tea from estates and grow manioc and the most foul murder of persons like Prof Stanley Wijesundera. Most mercifully the JVP uprising was nipped in the bud though thousands of youth made red the streams that ran through JVP dominated areas.

Visits to the War Museum and the Killing Fields were emotionally searing, to say the least.

In 1975, Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot’s security forces and made a detention and torture camp with classrooms divided into small cells where inmates were chained to their beds. Much smaller rooms had prisoners thrown in after torture sessions and chained as they writhed on the ground. Pictures were taken of the prisoners which are now bulletin boarded and left to stare at with tears of deep sorrow, and anger in the viewer, at the extent of such senseless brutality.

Corruption AND

The Killing Fields are by a tranquil lake and one hoped the dead rested in peace. One large square was where women and children were dumped in a shallow mass grave, often battered to death to save ammunition. Exact figures of those killed is still debated. The figure given us by our tour guide was 2.5 million, one fourth the population at the time.

To bring some peace to the disturbed mind we were then taken to the Royal Palace with the so tranquil Silver Pagoda on the same grounds.

When Pol Pot died a miserable lonely death in Khmer Rouge captivity on 15 April 1998, people would not celebrate until they actually saw pictures of his corpse on TV. They could not believe the monster was no more. The trial of the Khmer Rouge is still going on, 25 years too late. Pol Pot escaped rightful punishment.

Bites of info

One guide claimed that Cambodia is the world’s number one rice exporter, but a Thai claimed his country held this place. Whatever it is, Cambodia has only one harvest of rice per year, after the monsoon rains. Much of the land is covered with jungle within which people have their leaf walled and roofed houses, specially in the outskirts of Siem Reep. Forest cover from more than 50 percent has dwindled to 30 percent. The rest of the land is covered with grass and small bushes – these being rice fields.

Every Cambodian we spoke to had been affected by the Khmer Regime. Our two guides had both grown up in refugee camps after their parents fled Phnom Penh and Siem Reep respectively. Within ten years however, their lives are much more normal and they strive hard over education, earning and helping their families.

The Vietnamese it was who defeated the Khmer Rouge regime and the UN Transitional Authority in Cambodia (UNTAC) that steered the country to sanity and democracy, however circumscribed, with two years of supervision of the administration of the country with the goal of free elections. On May 25. 1993 elections were held. Even today, UNTAC’s activity is heralded as one of the UN’s success stories. But the LPG says, "it was an ill-conceived and poorly executed peace because so many of the powers involved in brokering the deal had their own agendas in advance." As of now, King Norodom Sihanouk is in retirement in Siem Reep having brought back his ballet dancing younger son from Prague and installed him as King Sihamoni who is unmarried. His elder brother is a power in the government.

Poverty

Much of it is seen around. Kids with (self imposed) miserable faces and uncombed malnourished hair sell you stuff at the ancient sites or even beg, but not whiny. They look lovely. The boat people seen on the boat-ride on Tomle Sap Lake in their floating village of Chong Kneas were very interesting. You see women cooking; infants in cloth strung cradles; small kids swirling around in flat metal saucers of diameter around one foot, often getting overturned and soon rising to the surface; a shop with a crocodile and gecko farm, also shopping! Children gaily defecate from their boat homes to the canal and lake. Most huts have TVs, though no electricity. When the monsoon arrives and the water level rises, they transfer themselves to land houses; at other times too so that this transfer is sometimes 15 times per year. Fresh water is brought in huge barrels and sold to the lake dwellers. Fishing is their industry. The lake is huge and at dry season two metres deep. Once the rains come the depth increases to 15 metres.

Progress but child labour

Material improvement – definitely. You can sail to Siem Reap from Phnom Penh, the journey taking around 5 hours, or drive down. We opted to fly Bangkok Airways to save time. A huge canal connects the land to the lake and is crowded with motorized boats. Ours had a boy of around 11 being the pilot to the teenaged driver/sailor. He would take down a huge oar and disentangle his boat from others. This canal is being extended so that soon it would be right at the doorstep of Siem Reap.

Within ten years there has been so much progress in buildings and infrastructure. For example eight years ago in Siem Reap there were just a handful of hotels, now hundreds of them, all new and clean with guest houses crowding in.

The life of the ordinary man, needless to say, has improved from what it was in the past, though there remains so much more to be done to bring some quality of life, especially for women and children.

More on Siem Reap next Sunday and, hold your breath, Angkor Wat!

16 comments:

Anonymous said...

WTF? Sri Lanka screwed up because it is ran by with Ah Sam Rainsy's ideology, not Hun Sen's.

What Sri Lanka needed to solve their problem is a fews hundreds thousands Vietcong from Hanoi to help out, and that should turned think around for them within 8-10 years or so. I mean they will be among the fastest growing countries just like us.

Anonymous said...

Sri Lanka is not your country. And we nrrd to talk about it. How Sam Rainsy, A Cambodian political leader force the Sri Lanka's ruler to run his country? You must be out your mind; otherwise, you must be retarded from birth.

Hun Xen is a puppet installed in power by Vitnam. He must follow Vitnam's direction in every way, lust like a god follow its master's. Cambodia tha has been going deeper and deeper in such unsolvable problems because she's been under the rule of a group of the morally blind puppet who devote their lives for their own personal intrest. Had these atrocious ex-Khmer Rouge have just a little patriotism and moral, Cambodian people wouldn't be miserable this far.

Anonymous said...

correction:
we nrrd: we don't need
god: dog

Anonymous said...

Hey you Yuon/Viet parasite @6:41 PM,

You Viet/Yuon parasite that keep shitting recklessy here all over Ki-Media must know that you are hurting your own freaking race, the Viet not us Cambodian. Got that?

When it comes to you Viet parasite, the universal language is: "The world sees and knows you Viet low-life true color already!!!"

Now tell that to you whores Viet mother, okay? What is the mileage of your whores mother? 300K+ miles?
Get a complete overhaul for you whores mother instead of invading Cambodia, you hear me you Viet parasite/plunderer?


Go home Viet, Go home!
Leave Khmer people alone to solve problems on their own...

Khmer needs no Vietcong on Khmer's land!

Anonymous said...

Hey you Yuon parasite @6:41 PM,

You Yuon parasite that keep shitting recklessy here all over Ki-Media must know that you are hurting your own freaking race, the Viet not us Cambodian. Got that?

When it comes to you Yuon parasite, the universal language is: "The world sees and knows you Yuon low-life true color already!!!"

Now tell that to you whores Viet mother, okay? What is the mileage of your whores mother? 300K+ miles?
Get a complete overhaul for you whores mother instead of invading Cambodia, you hear me you Yuon parasite/plunderer?


Go home Yuons, Go home!
Leave Khmer people alone to solve problems on their own...

Khmer needs no Vietcong on Khmer's land!

Anonymous said...

WTF? Sri Lanka screwed up because it is ran by with Ah psychopath Hun Sen's ideology, not H.E. Sam Rainsy's.

What Sri Lanka needed to solve their problem is a fews hundreds thousands youns from Hanoi to help out, and that should turned think around for them within 8-10 years or so. I mean they will be among the fastest growing countries just like us.

Anonymous said...

ជូនចំពោះ អាអគ្គមហាសេវាដៃចោរ ខូចសរសៃប្រសាទហ៊ុន សែន,

ពេលនេះ អាខូចសរសៃប្រសាទ ឈ្មោះហ៊ុន សែនគួរតែ គិតគូរដោះស្រាយ បញ្ហាទំនិញឡើងថ្លៃ ទើបត្រឹមត្រូវ ព្រោះជារឿង ដែលប្រជាពលរដ្ឋខ្មែរ ទូទាំងប្រទេស កំពុងខ្វាយខ្វល់។ ប៉ុន្តែ អាខ្ញុំយួនរូបនេះ បែរជាគិតគូរ អារឿងគ្មានអ្នកខ្វាយខ្វល់ទៅវិញ ដូចជា ការ “បំបាត់រាជស័ព្ទ“ ជាដើម ។
នេះចំជាអាហ៊ុន សែនខូចសរសៃប្រសាទមែនហើយ! ប្រជាពលរដ្ឋខ្មែរ សូមអញ្ជើញអាហ៊ុន សែន ទៅពេទ្យកាល់មែត ដើម្បីតំរង់សរសៃប្រសាទ ឡើងវិញទៅ ព្រោះដោយសារ អាខូចសរសៃប្រសាទហ្នឹងហើយ
ដែលចុះហត្ថលេខា អោយដីខ្មែរទៅយួន អោយពួកយួនចូលនៅខុសច្បាប់ នៅប្រទេសកម្ពុជា។

ងាប់អោយស្រឡះទៅ អាអគ្គមហាសេវាដៃចោរ ខូចសរសៃប្រសាទឈ្មោះហ៊ុន សែន។ គ្មានខ្មែរណាស្រណោះ អាក្បត់ជាតិឯងទេ។

Anonymous said...

Why We bother the Sri lanka's people?

We already have our own problem to solve. VIETS!
And especially, the monkeys who pretend to free people from Khmer Rouge. In fact, They're Khmer Rouge themselves... Keat Chhun, Hun Sen, Chea Sim, Heng Samrin, etc. If We recognize 1979-89's regime, We should recognize Penn Sovann first. But with CPP, nobody talk about Penn Sovann.
In fact, Viets attack Cambodia at the 25th of December 1978. Nobody work at Christmas's Eve. Smart viets! In fact, They're really smart. Now the democratic people, like me and many of you, fool ourselves. God must be crazy. Why don't We make the Alliance like Mr Mam Sonando and Mr Ok Socheat propose?
I was free from Khmer Rouge at the April 1979, so I don't think viets have free me. At that time, UN is preparing to free cambodians at Jan. 1979. And Viets know it, so They attack first. Viets got the supports from Russia. And in March 1978, Viets ask Ranariddh to be the leader, but He refuses it. Then, viets turn to Pen Sovann.

Does anyone know Hun Sen before the 80s???
All I hear is Heng Samrin and Penn Sovann.

Where is Pol Pot, there is a killing field!!! Where is Hun Sen, There are poverty and misery!!! So many peoples forget about 1979-89, poverty and misery!!!
Without the border fighters, we already like LAOS.
Now, poor peoples cheer Hun Sen. God my be crazy!
CONGRATULATION, IN 2009, WE WILL BEGIN TO GO BACK TO THE 80'S.

Khmer Canadian

Anonymous said...

Khmer Canadian @10:10,
Allow me to add some of my opinions
to yours. As I have said all along: there's no such a thing called liberation Movement formed by these immoral ex-Khmer Rouge. It was in fact the cleverness of Vietnam leaders who saw the golden opportunity to take the advantage of the chaotic situation of the Khmer people being tortued and mercilessly killed. Then Vietnam chose some idiots, preparing to hold the power after they launched a full-scale and well-planned invasion in disguide as the so-called Liberation Movement. They declared as such just to fool the world from accusing Vietnam of invasion of Cambodia.

If we believe in "doing good, get good and doing bad, get bad; then it must be time for the Khmer to receive the consequences of their evil deeds.

Anonymous said...

Vote CPP and everyone win.

Vote SRP and everyone will go back to year-zero.

Anonymous said...

Corruption is a legal term and is defined differently in different countries. The U.S. has a Foreign Corrupt Practices Act, but it has two safe harbors: you can donate money to send a foreign officials child to the US to attend University and pay room and tuition but that's not corruption, also if you pay an official a bribe to expedite paperwork, that's not corruption under the US definition. In Vietnam, all business commissions are defined as corruption and are illegal even though it occurs tens of thousands of times a year. Yes, what western governments call corruption occurs not only in Cambodia but most all other countries of the world and it’s certainly at high levels in Vietnam, Thailand and other neighboring countries. For Cambodia, giving some money to someone who has done something for you that you needed to have done is capitalism unrestrained and in Cambodia it’s the trickle down economic effect- so in the end it help transfer money from those that have it to those who don’t have enough. It’s kind of like giving a tip- is that corruption?

Anonymous said...

Corruption,Corruption,Corruption...
That's Hun Sen Regime.

Anonymous said...

HUN SEN must be put on trial for selling Cambodia to the Viet and shot by the firing squad if found guilty!!!

Anonymous said...

When "giving some money to someone who has done something for you that you needed to have done" means getting a powerful and rich criminal off the hook from the laws, and leaving the poor and powerless victim with nothing, it is no longer the magic of "trickled-down" or "unrestrained capitalism." No matter what lipstick you put on that pig, it is still an ugly pig.

It is not immunity from corruption that is required, but the mechanism of law and justice, a check-and-balnce system to deal with it. So far, the current Cambodian regime has done a good job of achieving no substance in dealing with corruption and independence of the judicial system, except excuses, of course.

Anonymous said...

please make sure to distinguish the difference between now and yesterday (past and present). questions should be is it still prevalent now? or was it yesterday? (the past). it is important to note the difference. this is why current statistics is very useful anywhere.

Anonymous said...

corruption is happening everywhere on the planet, really. i don't think it is good to measure corruption by expecting it to completely trouble free ( i mean even with the new gov't or administration or what have you). this human tradition is so ancient like prostitution. it is better to have law to control it or something. otherwise, it is like looking for perfect happiness. i doubt that one will ever find that either. this is why education makes people think reasonably. please stay in school.