Cambodia: A street food experience [-Bong-kang aing?]

Shrimp is grilled in the open markets of Phnom Penh, Cambodia. (Heath Robbins/contributed photo)
Jeffrey Fournier, chef/owner of 51 Lincoln in Newton, enjoys a skewer of shrimp in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. (Heath Robbins/contributed photo)

Apr 08, 2009
By Jeffrey Fournier/51 LINCOLN
GHS
The Daily News Tribune (Waltham, Massachusetts, USA)

The relationship between a person and the food that they eat is very personal and powerful. Just as strong is the connection between a culture and its food. My first experience with Khmer food was a nervous and sublime one that will stay with me forever.

My first day in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, brought me to the Kandal Market. Food stalls created a river of activity into which a multitude of people flowed. Boston-based photographer Heath Robbins and I negotiated through this chaos, our senses overwhelmed by pungent odors and bright colors.

As we waded carefully through the throngs of locals, my experiences as a chef piqued my intuition that these are a people who take pride in their food, serving fresh and delicious products.

After allowing myself to absorb the environment, I found an intriguing food stall on the outskirts of the market. Stacked high with fresh basil, plates and jars of sauces I had never seen or tasted before, skewers of cuttlefish and head-on prawns smoked away over wood charcoal, tantalizing my tastebuds. Small children smiled at me and bit into the cuttlefish like it was a fruit roll-up.

I knew this was the place for me. Getting the attention of a young Khmer woman, I pointed at the shrimp and she quickly motioned me to sit a stool at her table.

My host presented me with a plate of fresh basil leaves (more powerful than any basil I have had in recent memory), crisp bean sprouts and a sweet, pungent ginger sauce. When the skewer of shrimp was delivered, the young woman smiled with pride, seeming to know that I was about to experience something unique and personal.

Everything around me disappeared as I bit into the crispy, salty head of the first shrimp. I found myself lost in the sweetness of the ginger sauce mingled with the strong flavor of the sea - a reminder of the simple pleasures of food.

There is no sense criticizing honest food. It was produced with no pretence and allowed me to dine without inhibition. These few bites felt like welcome into Cambodia and invited me to start my culinary adventure.

The flavors of Cambodia touched me deeply and I have paid homage to the street vendors by including some Cambodian dishes on my spring menu. Below is a recipe for Cambodian Skewered Shrimp.

Jeffrey Fournier is the executive chef and owner of 51 Lincoln in Newton. For reservations, call 617-965-3100 or go to www.51lincolnnewton.com.
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CAMBODIAN SKEWERED SHRIMP WITH GINGER SAUCE

INGREDIENTS:

For the shrimp:

• 2 pounds U-10 shrimp (10 shrimp per pound), shell on
• 8 bamboo skewers
• 1/4 cup kosher salt
• 1 bunch basil
• 2 cups bean sprouts

For the Ginger Sauce:

• 1/4 cup chopped garlic
• 1/3 cup simple syrup
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Juice of two limes
• Pinch to 1 teaspoon of chili flake (depending on desired spiciness)

DIRECTIONS:

To make the shrimp: Place shrimp (in shell) in a bowl and sprinkle with salt.

Fill bowl lightly with water until shrimp are covered. Refrigerate and leave for 1 hour.

Remove shrimp from the water and skewer five shrimp on a double skewer (one going each direction through all shrimp).

Grill over charcoal, about 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Serve with basil and bean sprouts.

For the Ginger Sauce: Mix the garlic, simple syrup, salt and pepper, lime juice and chili flake, and serve in bowl for dipping.

Serves 4.