Monday, October 05, 2009

Preserving the "Khmer Surin" heritage: a man's solitary struggle

By Sarah Oliveira
Cambodia.Ka-Set.inf0

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13-06-2008

Phum Ponn (Surin, Thailand), 15/04/2008. Chaimongkol (right)
and Thong Luang (left) glancing through a Khmer language learning textbook
© Vandy Rattana


Today, one to two million “Khmer Surin” live in several provinces of what is present-day north-eastern Thailand. Khmer is gradually left aside as Thai is coming to be the main language, and Chaimongkol Chalermsukjitsri has set himself the goal of teaching Khmer writing in the villages of Surin. The Thai citizen, who makes no secret of his Khmer descent, is leading an against-the-current struggle to prevent this heritage from being completely forgotten.

No culture without language

“If what I have done is good, then preserve it.” The inscription, found on a stele in the Surin province and dating back to the reign of King Jayavarman VII, has since become Chaimongkol's motto. Ten years spent elaborating maps of north-eastern Thailand for the Bangkok Geographic Information System have helped him realise the importance of the heritage left by his ancestors: pre-Angkorian and Angkorian temples, barays (water reservoirs) and ancient roads... To Chaimongkol, however, the primary source of a culture is its language. And his observations are indeed cause for concern: with the exception of a few monks, very rare are those among the “Khmer Surin” people who can write the language. Young people living in the countryside more or less understand Khmer but now usually favour the use of Thai...

“There is no culture without language”, Chaimongkol insisted. “And organising our annual Surin Elephant Festival is just not enough. If we cannot speak Khmer any more, it is like having a pretty box in front of you, and only finding a scarecrow inside.” Today, the only place in Thailand providing Khmer writing classes is university. “Instead of standing here and feeling sorry for the vanishing of our language, I prefer trying to change things”, Chaimongkol explained with determination. In February 2007, he opened, as part of a voluntary project, a small school in Phum Ponn, a village located in the Surin province. The village made available to the teacher and his classes a blackboard and a television for them to watch Khmer language learning DVDs and little by little, Saturday mornings have become the perfect time to learn Khmer for 25 keen students, aged 9 to 44 years old.

“Khmer is somewhere in their DNA”

The hardest part of the process is to convince parents that it is important for their children to learn how to write Khmer. Thong Luang, one of the elders in the Phum Ponn village, used to teach with Chaimongkol, and recalled that after the 1962 International Court of Justice in the Hague ruling (which stated that the temple of Preah Vihear came under the sovereignty of Cambodia) the Thai had burnt ancient writings in some pagodas of Surin. Ever since that episode, monks have not dared teaching Khmer. According to Cambodian historian Michel Tranet, the main vectors of “Thaisation” are modernisation, television and schooling. Chaimongkol admitted that some “Khmer Surin” even felt ashamed of speaking their own language, fearing the scorn of other people or being called a “peasant”. “They have lost their pride because they have been vanquished and dominated”, Michel Tranet observed. “But who are the ones who write History? The victorious ones, always.”

Tim, a 32 year-old affable young woman wearing thick glasses, attends Chaimongkol's classes and can now read Khmer tales. “They learn fast, I think they have it somewhere in their DNA”, the teacher said with a hint of humour. “It is not easy for the youngest ones”, Tim added, “because they can't speak Khmer very well.” If she has a chance to, Tim hopes to teach Khmer in the primary school where she is currently working. This is also Chaimongkol's mission in the long run: seeing regional state schools make the Khmer language an optional subject in their curriculum. “Then, I will be able to retire and live with my mind at ease in my garden”, Chaimongkol declared, hopeful. But the task is demanding, and although school headmasters have shown enthusiasm, no measure has been taken yet. “ I don't know if it is because they are not proud or brave enough...”, the teacher wondered. Another trick in the equation is the fact that “Khmer Surin” people who can read Khmer and altogether teach the writing are very few.

Walking a tightrope

Chaimongkol's story is quite atypical. If he had not previously worked in a refugee camp on the border, he would never have learnt how to write Khmer, to start with. “When I taught at Site II, people laughed when they heard me pronounce certain words, so, together with a friend, I decided to learn how to write the Khmer language.” After two years in Phnom Penh, he was finally able to manage the language, juggling with the Surin and Cambodian accent. The 1997 clashes forced him to stop attending History classes, which he had been able to pay for by assisting a Thai journalist based in the Cambodian capital city. He remembers that in Phnom Penh at that time, a few students used to consider him as a “traitor”.

But in fact, it is truly because of his love for Khmer culture that Chaimongkol chose to earn a living with casual jobs so as to be able to spend his weekends teaching Khmer writing. To him, claiming the independence of Surin or its incorporation into Cambodia is out of the question. “How could we possibly demand that? Cambodians can't even rule their country properly. Most are not aware of what it means to be Khmer...” Chaimongkol knows he is walking a tightrope here, and although he does not talk politics in his classes, the language could be considered as a much political matter, but Chaimongkol feels yet protected by the Thai Constitution.

The few grey hairs scattered in his beard prove that he has now entered the age of wisdom. “At the age of 20, I was studying. At 30, I started a family. And now that I am in my forties, I am not afraid of anything. This land used to be ours, so we should at least be able to preserve our language! Our children already spend many hours a day learning Thai at school; we are only asking for a few hours of Khmer!”

A struggle against language death

Historian Michel Tranet sees Chaimongkol's project as a much honourable initiative. “ But it is only a drop in the ocean!”, he observed. To him, the “Khmer Surin” people are “a dying people” and “Thaisation” is an inevitable and irreversible process. “Why would 'Khmer Surin' continue to speak Khmer when they need it less and less? Speaking Thai, the official language spoken in their country, ensures their future”, he pointed out. “I am aware that I am going against the tide here”, Chaimongkol admitted, “but it is because I am convinced that if we do not save the Khmer language, we will soon encounter problems”.

Chaimongkol is not at all disheartened by the lack of money to back up his initiative, and although he is looking for funds, he refuses to receive money from either the Thai or Cambodian authorities, which to him is a guarantee of independence. “A Bangkok university contacted me to inform me that if I taught Khmer using Thai writing, the authorities could finance my project”, he revealed. But if others accepted, like Thong Luang, recently, Chaimongkol is willing to resist. “It is as good as learning English by writing Thai!”, the teacher said with provocation. I do not despise Thai writing, but leaning Khmer by writing Thai... what is the point here? If one decides to learn Khmer, it is for the purpose of learning Khmer and nothing else!”, he stressed, adding that the pronunciation of many Khmer words cannot be transcribed in an accurate way into Thai writing.

Chaimongkol collects in his office all sort of books - in Khmer, Thai, English – regarding all things more or less related to Khmer culture. A few books with fine bindings have been presented to him by Princess Bopha Devi. He hopes that one day he will have enough funds available to create a cultural institute with events and conferences organised in partnership with other cultural organisations in Cambodia, “a little like the exchanges between the Alliance Française in Bangkok and the French Cultural Centre in Phnom Penh”. On the one hand, this would allow Cambodian students to come and teach Khmer for a few months in Phum Ponn or do some research there, and on the other hand, Chaimongkol's students could do a discovery trip to Phnom Penh - and if some of them are willing to do so, they could even continue their studies in the capital with scholarships. Through the preservation of the Khmer language in north-east Thailand, Chaimongkol's aim is to simply establish a bridge of friendship between the “Khmer Surin” people and Cambodians, brothers living on both sides of the Dangrek mountain chain.

29 comments:

Anonymous said...

You've never heard that Thai suppressed khmer SURIN and khmer SURIN never migrated to Cambodia, but you've heard almost daily that yuon love to suppress khmer kampuchea krom and the latter one always flee to Cambodia for their safety.

Yuons are the real khmer's enemies.

Kanha Long Saroath said...

8:27AM You are Pol pot Groups mane te Bong Thom?

Anonymous said...

Both yuons siems are khmers' ennemies. Only their strategies are different to achieve their goals.

Anonymous said...

"Pay no attention to the faults of others,
things done or left undone by others.
Consider only what by oneself is done or left undone."Buddha

"Sokha mateyak-ta loké,Akcho pété yakta sokha,sokha sa-magnhak-ta Loké akchor Prumagnhak-ta sokha"

"Good is it to honour mothers,good is it to honour fathers,good is it to honour ascetics and good is it to honour the Noble Ones." Buddha.

Khmer love khmer .

Anonymous said...

9:04AM,
Living in the real challenging world as we are today, we must apply contitutional laws.

These Buddha's words are for those who pursue spiritual sereniny/peace of mind.

Anonymous said...

Khmers living in Thailand will never rise up to act against Thai government for some reason that Thais and Khmer worship the same religion and share similar traditional value. Thai government does not suppress Khmer as Vietnam does to Khmer Kampuchea Krom. And I have observed from karaoke dvds that most Khmer Surin singers would rather speak Thai in their introductory part before they sing sond which consist of Khmer and Thai words.

Anonymous said...

Both extremes kill Khmers. Viets' hot method kill Khmer Kroms, while Thais' cold method kill Khmer Surins.

It is up to Khmers to resist sufferings under the Viets, and to not be complacent under Thai's cold policy. Because both policies will put Khmers into coma or to sleep until no more Khmer!!!

Khmer Angkor

Anonymous said...

correction: sing songs

Anonymous said...

L` Ignorance est la source de la souffrance.

http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=sVLTFmWX4VE

http://ki-media.blogspot.com/2009/04/9-lives-of-norodom-sihanouk-part-1-in.html

http://ki-media.blogspot.com/2009/04/9-lives-of-norodom-sihanouk-part-2-in.html

"attahi-atta nor-nearthor ,attahi-atta nor kati,tasma-saing yamak atta naing,sasa yaing phak taraing vak vea-ni-chho"

"Oneself is one's own protector,oneself is one's own refuge.Control,therefore,your own self as a merchant,a spirited charger."

Anonymous said...

9:40AM,
Are you a monk?.If you are then keep your thor to yourself.sokha mateyak-ta loke kbal ach ey te ,just get the hell out of here.

Anonymous said...

Attahi- atta-nor -nearthor= khluon ti poeung neak dotey kalna yoeung oss angkor( no rice), oss luy(no money),oss kangea(no job).

Anonymous said...

"If you wish for good luck, sleep and wait"Buddha

Im Chem’s investigation, just a “speculation”: KR Tribunal

Anonymous said...

Every neighbour needs to respect each other’s boundary in order to keep its own citizen in place or otherwise if war occurs again, it will go into another chaos. We Asian nations need to find solutions for peace in order to protect our future generation from harm and finding ways to protect all individuals as well like; all for one and one for all and that everyone is equally important regardless who they are or where they come from. Asian nation needs to create an international security net to protect everyone who may travel to and from each other’s country. We Asian nation must reach a common goal and common interest for the best of our society e.g. if one nation needs help the rest must come together as one. We also need to use the system like European nations, creating a one currency of "Euro" or maybe we can call our currency as "Asiano or "Asian-mono". Just remember, the power of love, compassion, share, and respect can be conquered from all odds. Finally, don’t to forget to invite other nations as our special guests as well. Aust

Anonymous said...

Your comment is good only if Cambodia is a dependent country, but unfortuantely our country is not.

Anonymous said...

correction: ...is an independent country

Anonymous said...

It's not going to work simply because there is always one country tying to dominate the others.The soviet Union was collapsed precisely because of that .Russia was the domineering country.

Anonymous said...

Hey 11:28am,

Well said, Viet. Cong may not see the problem at hand. Khmer Krom is on the horizing....

Any, I bravo these tow gentlemen from Surin who are trying to preserve Khmer literacy....by passing it onto Khmer surin youn generation.

Bravo, Bravo...,

Anonymous said...

Khmerization,

Thank you very much for having posted this great article here.

Great job!

Anet Khmer

Anonymous said...

There are no Brainer, when you see your next door Fuck and Breeds Just like the Rabbits then you must know what they are going to do to your country!
Never under estimate stupid people in a large groups.They might clean your nails or wash your hairs but they are there to take over.

Anonymous said...

We Khmer need to support Mr. Chay Mongkol.

Anonymous said...

Best respect for MR Chay Monkol who is trying to teach Khmer young generation in Thailand. We (all of Khmer) must support him and our Khmer our over there. Khmer people in Cambodia must spend more money for helping for those projects.

Khmer son

Tuk Trey Sre said...

How can anyone stopped the Siamese government proganda, where the General Public in Siam accepted that Khmers are decendent of Siamese?

The Siamese are twisting every history fact to make Khmer Nation as inferior as Possible. For instance, Siamese Language is DERIVATIVE of KHMER written Language, but the Siamese concocted "khom" as derivative of their Language.

Today, Khmer NOT only risking of losing Territorial boundary to Siam, but WE KHMER RISKING LOSING OURS ANCESTRAL PRIDE WHAT MAKE KHMER KINGDOM FAME FOR THE LAST 2 MELLENIUM FACING OUT BECAUSE THE SIAMESE PROGANDA!

AS KHMER SCHOLARS ARE DYING OUT, THE KNOWLEDGES ARE FADING WITH A PERSON. WE KHMER NEEDS HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS REPOSITORIES ABROAD TO PRESERVE OUR ANCESTORS.

Our current government is not in the interest in Preserving Khmer Culture or Serving Khmer Nation. It's a sad state in Cambodia.

Anonymous said...

You mean Siamese are decendent of Khmers, not the other way around right?

Anonymous said...

Keep up with your great work Mr. Chaimongkol. You’re my Hero!

Many Khmers people are either selfish or stupid. They would donate $10,000 dollars or more to build pagoda, but not to schools, hospitals, research and development centers, or red cross etc. Why? Because they believe building pagoda or giving money to the monks is the best way for them to have a better life in their next life. These people are not generous, they do this for themselves and only think of their own interests. I’m sure Buddha will not bless them for this kind of impurities.

Anonymous said...

Chaymonkol should consider forming a body comparable to Khmer Krom to apply for status under UN- people of no nation representation before Siam pulled strings on him.

The world know about Khmers in Siam but Khmers in Siam need do for themselves. That case Siam will NOT accuse Cambodia of inference per ASEAN charter.
We ,overseas Khmers, will support that effort,of course.

Anonymous said...

khmer language is not hard to study, really. a good way to learn the khmer language is by reciting the most basic khmer alphabets. i mean, study the sound and positionof the letter thoroughly. even small khmer children can do that. practice makes perfect because from there on, khmer language is becoming easier as you move up into higher level of education. yes, learn the basic foundation of the khmer alphabet and it will take you a long way to getting good with reading, writing and speaking the khmer language. god bless.

Anonymous said...

Hey 1:02pm,

Good comment!

Anonymous said...

our khmer brothers and sisters, we are only separated by political boundary only, however you are still khmer decendants no matter where you lived. please always remember your khmer origin always. may god bless the khmer surin and more.

Anonymous said...

I am 35 years old, I’m from Surin. I speak Khmer fluently but I only understand when I communicate to people in SiemReap. I believe that within 100 years. They will completely call themself Thai or Thai Esan instead of Khmer . We are completely educated in Thai system and Thai history background, even our historic province, they cut off . We from what they input. Young children are kept quiet and they don't speak Khmer in public anymore. I don’t really know what to help our Khmer ethic background. We try to convince ,get them involved and promote the khmer heritage in Surin. now seems getting better. We don't want to force them too. You need to understand the khmer history is actually complicated.