By Jaime Adame
Abilene Biz (Texas, USA)
About a week after arriving in the United States, Steve Lao was making doughnuts.
Lao, a native of Cambodia who endured the brutal regime led by Pol Pot, came to California in 1989 at age 29, where “my friend, he had a doughnut shop,” he said.
Choong Park of Korean ancestry got into doughnuts more recently, learning from his brother, who has owned a doughnut shop in Wichita Falls for about three years.
Both men recently have joined the seemingly crowded field of doughnut shop operators in Abilene, bringing the number of doughnut shops in Abilene to nine, according to business listings. There is the Jack ‘N’ Jill chain, as well as two A.M. Donut Shops (which also have Cambodian owners).
Park and his wife, Mi, own Dandy Donuts at 2549 S. 1st St., near Ross Avenue. Both are quick to smile and laugh with customers, and Choong Park has put his construction skills to good use, building a wooden deck he hopes will become a popular spot for outside diners when warmer weather arrives.
Lao, 51, runs Donut Time with his business partner, Kim An Om, at South Willis and South 27th streets, the former location of The Donut Palace. He speaks proudly and knowledgeably about his craft, and said he insists on making things “fair” for his customers, offering mix-and-match deals when a dozen items are ordered.
The men come to Abilene not without making sacrifices. Choong Park’s four children reside in Flower Mound, in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, though his wife is temporarily in Abilene. The children range in age from 8 to 19, and he said his mother is looking after the youngest.
Lao has a wife and two children, ages 9 and 11, in California. He hopes to visit in May or June.
Each cite the influences of their fellow expatriates in getting into the doughnut business.
Lao estimated that as many as 90 percent of the doughnut shops in California are Cambodian-run.
“No. 1, we have no education,” said Lao matter-of-factly, explaining the state of refugees who came to the United States around the time he did. But Lao said they arrived with a strong work ethic needed to succeed in a demanding business that requires long hours.
Choong Park said Koreans dominate the doughnut business in the Dallas area. When asked why, he talked about the early start to the workday.
“They don’t mind. They work hard,” Choong Park said. “It’s not easy.”
EARLY DAYS
“I can wake up early, but this is way too early,” said Park with a laugh. Each day, Park said he gets to work at about 2 a.m. or earlier to prepare that day’s batch of doughnuts.
It’s just part of the doughnut business, and both men do the baking seven days a week.
Lao’s shop opens at 5 a.m. and closes at 5 p.m., making for workdays that stretch to 15 or 16 hours, he said.
Choong Park’s shop also opens at 5 a.m., though by 1 p.m. he usually shuts things down. But with plenty of dining space in a building that formerly was a restaurant, he said he’s thinking of perhaps adding lunch items to expand his offerings.
Choong Park, 50, said he came to the United States about 30 years ago from South Korea, hoping for a better life.
He lived in Abilene for about seven years before moving away in 2004, he said. He worked mostly construction jobs. With the help of contractors, he has completely remodeled the 3,000-square foot former restaurant.
It has a sun-drenched seating area, with new floors and fresh red-and-yellow paint job that adds to the bright setting. There also is a touch of art — Park’s 17-year-old daughter Dawn contributed a skilled painting of two doughnuts frosted with pink icing and blue swirls. The impressionistic work on canvas adds to the décor, along with flowers placed on the mantle of a former fireplace, which may be recognizable to many older Abilenians who remember when the building housed the very first Taco Bueno restaurant.
Dandy Donuts opened Dec. 15.
Park said he owned a store in the Dallas area, but was encouraged to enter the doughnut business by people from his church.
After training with others and spending time learning from his brother, Choong Park said he sought out Abilene in part for the lower real estate prices, but also because he enjoyed his time in the town.
He and his wife made the investment in the building and the remodeling work, and now they are working to develop their business.
“It takes time to settle down,” said Choong Park. “Every day, it’s getting better.”
HELPING A FRIEND
For Lao, he has about 15 years of experience owning his own doughnut shop. He said he’s bought and sold several in that time in Southern California, training nephews to take over.
He has one California shop remaining open, which his wife is managing.
Lao said Donut Time is an investment, but also a way to help out Om, an old friend from when the two battled starvation during the repressive, violent crackdowns in their region.
Lao was forced into hiding, but said he could rely on the generosity of Om, who came to the United States in 1992.
“You don’t have any food to eat,” said Lao, recalling his struggles before coming to the United States as a refugee. “She gave her share,” he said, explaining “that’s why I came to help her here.”
Now, Lao is helping train Om and her son to learn the doughnut trade. He talks about the importance of making doughnuts in the “California” style, which he describes as bigger and fluffier than what he has seen in Texas.
The bell clangs at Donut Time, which opened Jan. 1, and Lao talks to customers pulling up to make an order. Drive-through orders are the most common at his shop.
There is a decent-sized seating area, but his shop is dominated by the large front counter.
In Abilene, Lao said he likes the friendly customers. Driving around, he said he’s also pleased by the lack of graffiti. He said he is considering moving his family from California to Abilene, but said he doesn’t know what the future holds.
OPTIMISM
Park wants to open a drive-through operation, but he has had to rely on help from his wife, Mi, after his nephew left the shop, unable to handle the early hours, Park said.
Until he figures out how to get more help, his shop will be walk-in only.
Both men offer more than doughnuts, however. Lao sells kolaches and breakfast burritos. Park also sells sausage rolls, and makes a habit of giving away his unsold merchandise to local charities like Love & Care Ministries.
“It is helpful,” said Terry Davis, director of ministries for the organization, which offers breakfast meals for the needy.
Whatever the competition, Park and Lao are optimistic about their businesses, though Lao said the economy undoubtedly has hurt sales in his California shop.
Still, not many places offer something you can buy for less than a dollar, Choong Park said.
“It’s convenient,” he said.
For customers, maybe. For the early risers behind the counter, not so much.
Lao, a native of Cambodia who endured the brutal regime led by Pol Pot, came to California in 1989 at age 29, where “my friend, he had a doughnut shop,” he said.
Choong Park of Korean ancestry got into doughnuts more recently, learning from his brother, who has owned a doughnut shop in Wichita Falls for about three years.
Both men recently have joined the seemingly crowded field of doughnut shop operators in Abilene, bringing the number of doughnut shops in Abilene to nine, according to business listings. There is the Jack ‘N’ Jill chain, as well as two A.M. Donut Shops (which also have Cambodian owners).
Park and his wife, Mi, own Dandy Donuts at 2549 S. 1st St., near Ross Avenue. Both are quick to smile and laugh with customers, and Choong Park has put his construction skills to good use, building a wooden deck he hopes will become a popular spot for outside diners when warmer weather arrives.
Lao, 51, runs Donut Time with his business partner, Kim An Om, at South Willis and South 27th streets, the former location of The Donut Palace. He speaks proudly and knowledgeably about his craft, and said he insists on making things “fair” for his customers, offering mix-and-match deals when a dozen items are ordered.
The men come to Abilene not without making sacrifices. Choong Park’s four children reside in Flower Mound, in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, though his wife is temporarily in Abilene. The children range in age from 8 to 19, and he said his mother is looking after the youngest.
Lao has a wife and two children, ages 9 and 11, in California. He hopes to visit in May or June.
Each cite the influences of their fellow expatriates in getting into the doughnut business.
Lao estimated that as many as 90 percent of the doughnut shops in California are Cambodian-run.
“No. 1, we have no education,” said Lao matter-of-factly, explaining the state of refugees who came to the United States around the time he did. But Lao said they arrived with a strong work ethic needed to succeed in a demanding business that requires long hours.
Choong Park said Koreans dominate the doughnut business in the Dallas area. When asked why, he talked about the early start to the workday.
“They don’t mind. They work hard,” Choong Park said. “It’s not easy.”
EARLY DAYS
“I can wake up early, but this is way too early,” said Park with a laugh. Each day, Park said he gets to work at about 2 a.m. or earlier to prepare that day’s batch of doughnuts.
It’s just part of the doughnut business, and both men do the baking seven days a week.
Lao’s shop opens at 5 a.m. and closes at 5 p.m., making for workdays that stretch to 15 or 16 hours, he said.
Choong Park’s shop also opens at 5 a.m., though by 1 p.m. he usually shuts things down. But with plenty of dining space in a building that formerly was a restaurant, he said he’s thinking of perhaps adding lunch items to expand his offerings.
Choong Park, 50, said he came to the United States about 30 years ago from South Korea, hoping for a better life.
He lived in Abilene for about seven years before moving away in 2004, he said. He worked mostly construction jobs. With the help of contractors, he has completely remodeled the 3,000-square foot former restaurant.
It has a sun-drenched seating area, with new floors and fresh red-and-yellow paint job that adds to the bright setting. There also is a touch of art — Park’s 17-year-old daughter Dawn contributed a skilled painting of two doughnuts frosted with pink icing and blue swirls. The impressionistic work on canvas adds to the décor, along with flowers placed on the mantle of a former fireplace, which may be recognizable to many older Abilenians who remember when the building housed the very first Taco Bueno restaurant.
Dandy Donuts opened Dec. 15.
Park said he owned a store in the Dallas area, but was encouraged to enter the doughnut business by people from his church.
After training with others and spending time learning from his brother, Choong Park said he sought out Abilene in part for the lower real estate prices, but also because he enjoyed his time in the town.
He and his wife made the investment in the building and the remodeling work, and now they are working to develop their business.
“It takes time to settle down,” said Choong Park. “Every day, it’s getting better.”
HELPING A FRIEND
For Lao, he has about 15 years of experience owning his own doughnut shop. He said he’s bought and sold several in that time in Southern California, training nephews to take over.
He has one California shop remaining open, which his wife is managing.
Lao said Donut Time is an investment, but also a way to help out Om, an old friend from when the two battled starvation during the repressive, violent crackdowns in their region.
Lao was forced into hiding, but said he could rely on the generosity of Om, who came to the United States in 1992.
“You don’t have any food to eat,” said Lao, recalling his struggles before coming to the United States as a refugee. “She gave her share,” he said, explaining “that’s why I came to help her here.”
Now, Lao is helping train Om and her son to learn the doughnut trade. He talks about the importance of making doughnuts in the “California” style, which he describes as bigger and fluffier than what he has seen in Texas.
The bell clangs at Donut Time, which opened Jan. 1, and Lao talks to customers pulling up to make an order. Drive-through orders are the most common at his shop.
There is a decent-sized seating area, but his shop is dominated by the large front counter.
In Abilene, Lao said he likes the friendly customers. Driving around, he said he’s also pleased by the lack of graffiti. He said he is considering moving his family from California to Abilene, but said he doesn’t know what the future holds.
OPTIMISM
Park wants to open a drive-through operation, but he has had to rely on help from his wife, Mi, after his nephew left the shop, unable to handle the early hours, Park said.
Until he figures out how to get more help, his shop will be walk-in only.
Both men offer more than doughnuts, however. Lao sells kolaches and breakfast burritos. Park also sells sausage rolls, and makes a habit of giving away his unsold merchandise to local charities like Love & Care Ministries.
“It is helpful,” said Terry Davis, director of ministries for the organization, which offers breakfast meals for the needy.
Whatever the competition, Park and Lao are optimistic about their businesses, though Lao said the economy undoubtedly has hurt sales in his California shop.
Still, not many places offer something you can buy for less than a dollar, Choong Park said.
“It’s convenient,” he said.
For customers, maybe. For the early risers behind the counter, not so much.
1 comment:
Running a Donut Shop is very hard working and working long hour with less sleep if you are running only 2 people. I have friend now running donut in Renton,WA. I can not work like them. 7 day a week,30day a month, with no day off. But for working hard does pay off for some like a good home,good car,etc.
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