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| Seeing Angkor's temples from the air offers a unique viewpoint. (Credit: Tang Chhin Sothy/Getty) |
April-2-2011
By:Jade Bilowol/AAP with AG staff
Take in the splendours of the ancient and sprawling city of Angkor from a totally different perspective.
IT'S ONE THING SEEING Cambodia's ancient Angkor temples up close and personal. It's something else capturing a bird's-eye view of this once-thriving kingdom from the height of a helicopter. We've strapped ourselves in and put on our headphones, which fail to completely suppress the 'whump, whump, whump' of the chopper's blades, which are slicing the air and whirling us into the clear, blue sky.
The voice of our Aussie pilot, Phil Butterworth, crackles through our earpieces: "You've chosen a great day to fly. The weather conditions are pretty much perfect". He outlines the itinerary of our brief flight. We'll eyeball seven temples amid this UNESCO World Heritage Area, including the jewel in the crown, Angkor Wat.
No sooner have we taken off from the international airport at Siem Reap, the charming, French-influenced town at the doorstep of the temples, when Angkor Wat - reportedly the world's largest religious building - looms into our sights.
Surrounded by a moat, it sits on top of a 1 sq. km mound of earth cut into the thick green foliage. Built in the early part of the 12th century by then Angkor ruler Suryavarman II, this Hindu temple looks deceivingly miniature from the air. The sheer beauty of its architecture emphasises just how sophisticated the Khmer Empire was for its time. During its peak, it was arguably the most advanced kingdom in the world.
THE ANGKORIAN ERA stretches more than six centuries from the early AD 800s. The number of ruins is contested, but there are said to be up to 1000 known sites ranging from stony rubble to the magnificent Angkor Wat.
The Cambodians believe there are more majestic treasures yet to be uncovered beneath the dense vegetation. The temples scattered through the region only hint at the vastness of this former behemoth that, at its most powerful, was home to one million. At the same time London’s population nudged just 50,000.
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| One of Angkor's many Buddhist monks takes in the spectacular view from on high (Credit: Robert Churchill/Getty). |
Due to the Khmer settlement's sprawling nature, the city of Angkor is devoid of an official boundary. Its size has been compared to modern Los Angeles, yet it didn't enjoy the luxuries of cars and electricity.
Angkor Wat is the most famous of the temples. So much so that I find it surprising to learn it's one of a great many temples here.
OUR PILOT PHIL pulls us away, the helicopter gravitating towards some of Angkor's lesser known attractions, including Prasat Krayan, Prasat Bat Chum, Srah Srang, Prasat Pre Rup, Eastern Mebon and Prasat Ta Som. In their varying sizes, shapes and stages of decay or restoration, each of the temples is awe-inspiring.
Albeit a more expensive way to see Angkor Wat, I have opted to fly by helicopter, as it’s a quicker way to cover more ground. I also hope this sky-high view orientates me and enables me to gauge the distance between the structures.
Phil reveals his pick of the bunch - Prasat Pre Rup - which he explains is featured as much as Angkor Wat in many documentaries and film shoots.
It's easy to see why. Its outer galleries are neat borders, ascending towards four towers guarding its large, innermost tower. It seems to be a royal tomb. "It's best at sunset. Go down there with a few beers and relax," Phil advises before we continue on to East Mebon.
On our way back to the airport we once again hover near Angkor Wat. From the opposite direction it cuts a darker, silhouetted marvel, backlit by the sun.
As we touch down, Phil tells us Siem Reap has changed dramatically over the past few years, as hotels and resorts sprout up everywhere. But its centre remains intact with quaint, French shop fronts, a sophisticated restaurant scene and leafy streets.
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| A boy leaps into the cooling waters at Angkor. Can it support growing numbers of visitors? (Credit: Paula Bronstein/Getty). |
THE NEXT DAY we immerse ourselves in the thick of the temples at ground level, battling the sweltering, stifling heat. Before Victoria Gate, en-route to Bayon Temple, our tuk-tuk bounces along a bridge lined with statues. I can't help but notice the old bodies of men and gods with new heads. We learn the heads were lopped off by the Khmer Rouge during their four-year reign of genocide.
We reach Bayon Temple, which proves impossible to capture in one photo, no matter how far back you step. It features more than 200 stone faces, their facial expressions ever-changing depending on the sunlight's direction. Another highlight is Ta Prohm, its slabs of limestone pushed out of place by the power of huge tree roots. One of its claims to fame is being the backdrop to Angelina Jolie in the movie Tomb Raider.
We are shocked at how scores of tourists are able to simply crawl all over these archaeological gems. Surely the damage caused day-in, day-out is not sustainable? At Angkor Wat alone, 1.7 million people visited in 2006, and tourism numbers have been growing at around 30 per cent a year.
The distance between temples via tuk-tuk really hits home the immensity of this temple trail. It's all much easier to navigate by helicopter. Only rivalled by the likes of the pyramids and Machu Picchu in Peru, this ancient marvel is one to be admired from a distance. Not man-handled and further deteriorated.
Jade Bilowol writes for publications including the Sydney Morning Herald and the Australian Associated Press.
IF YOU GO:
• You will need to catch a flight from Australia to Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, as there are no flights from Australia to Cambodia's capital Phnom Penh or Siem Reap.
• Flights between Australia and Vietnam are available with a variety of airline carriers including Vietnam Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Malaysian Airlines, Jetstar and Qantas. Once in Ho Chi Minh City, you can fly direct to Siem Reap with Vietnam Airlines.
• Helistar Cambodia flights start from $90 per person for an eight minute flight. For further details, visit www.helistarcambodia.com.
5 comments:
Another article which makes Siam jealous !
Koh Tral Island must not be forgotten
By Ms. Rattana Keo
Why do Koh Tral Island, known in Vietnam as Phu Quoc, a sea and land area covering proximately over 10,000 km2 [Note: the actual land size of Koh Tral itself is 574 square kilometres (222 sq miles)] have been lost to Vietnam by whose treaty? Why don’t Cambodia government be transparent and explain to Cambodia army at front line and the whole nation about this? Why don't they include this into education system? Why?
Cambodian armies are fighting at front line for 4.6 km2 on the Thai border and what's about over 10,000km2 of Cambodia to Vietnam. Nobody dare to talk about it! Why? Cambodian armies you are decide the fate of your nation, Cambodian army as well as Cambodian people must rethink about this again and again. Is it fair?
Koh Tral Island, the sea and land area of over 10,000 square kilometres have been lost to Vietnam by the 1979 to 1985 treaties. The Cambodian army at front line as well as all Cambodian people must rethink again about these issues. Are Cambodian army fighting to protect the Cambodia Nation or protecting a very small group that own big lands, big properties or only protecting a small group but disguising as protecting the Khmer nation?
The Cambodian army at front lines suffer under rain, wind, bullets, bombs, lack of foods, lack of nutrition and their families have no health care assistance, no securities after they died but a very small group eat well, sleep well, sleep in first class hotel with air conditioning system with message from young girls, have first class medical care from oversea medical treatments, they are billionaires, millionaires who sell out the country to be rich and make the Cambodian people suffer everyday.
Who signed the treaty 1979-1985 that resulted in the loss over 10,000 km2 of Cambodia??? Why they are not being transparent and brave enough to inform all Cambodians and Cambodian army at front line about these issues? Why don't they include Koh Tral (Koh Tral size is bigger than the whole Phom Phen and bigger than Singapore [Note: Singapore's present land size is 704 km2 (271.8 sq mi)]) with heap of great natural resources, in the Cambodian education system?
Look at Hun Sen's families, relatives and friends- they are billionaires, millionaires. Where did they get the money from when we all just got out of war with empty hands [in 1979]? Hun Sen always say in his speeches that Cambodia had just risen up from the ashes of war, just got up from Year Zero with empty hands and how come they are billionaires, millionaires but 90% of innocent Cambodian people are so poor and struggling with their livelihood every day?
Smart Khmer girl Ms. Rattana Keo,
Khmer’s Actuary Financial and economic investigation found that Dr. Hun Sen and his families’ money is not less than US$ 100 billion in all around the world including banks deposited, investments and properties around the world.
All relatives of Dr. Hun Sen ( above 380 families of Dr. Hun Sen together ) is not less than US$ 200 Billion including all their properties and banks deposited and investments all around the world.
Plus the secret money such as drugs dealer, Gold, Silver, diamonds, forest trees cut down, Angkor watt and over 1000 Khmer ancient temples tourist income, oil in the year 2012...During Dr. Hun Sen’s regime, his economic miss calculation and management make Cambodia loss revenue not less that US$ 1 600 Billion to Thailand and mostly Vietnam.
Plus foreign aid Japan alone donates US$ 150 Billion so far. Where is the money? Interesting isn’t it?
Approximately 10 000Km2 to Vietnam (10 000Km2 of sea with full of sea foods protein, oil, minerals include Koh Trol)
65% of Cambodia forest trees have been cut down for private selling only.
Dr. Hun Sen and his families, relatives and friends are stealing from 90% Cambodian people that earn less than $2 per day. They steal 90% Cambodian people health, well being, Khmer dignity, cut down 90% Cambodian people life expectancy, foods...from 90% Cambodian people. Plus pump in more Vietnamese (approximately not less than 5 million Vietnamese in Cambodia) into Cambodia to make 90% of Cambodian people poorer and sufferer.
By Khmer’s Actuary Economic science internal revenue investigation,
Thai is jealous of What countries?
Is she jealous of Khmer or Vietnam?
Thai is jealous of Vietnam.Why?
There are 6,000,000 Vietnamese immigrants,20,000 Vietcong troops,thousand companies in Cambodia.The Vietnam govt is controlling the whole Khmer country like Vietnam doing in Lao.
Vietnam govt has two huge provinces(Lao and Cambodia).
This what Thai is jealous of Vietnam.
So,Lao and Cambodia are ghost states,but the both are Vietnam lands.Lao and Khmer are like Champa and Khmer Krom.
the world, please come visit cambodia's angkor wat and other ancient khmer monuments in cambodia. we have beautiful tropical beaches and many many other ecotour sites, etc... welcome to cambodia.
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