Exploring Cambodia by staying with local Khmer families

Jan 24, 2012
By Bernd Kubisch
DPA

Kampong Thom, Cambodia - The few established attractions in Cambodia such as the temple in Angkor Wat are generally overrun by tourists.

However, Khmer families in the province of Kampong Thom are now offering village accommodation in their simple wooden houses, presenting tourists with the chance of exploring rarely visited jungle terrain and mountain temples.

The villagers have stocked up on fresh vegetables, fish, chicken, rice, beer and bottles of water for their foreign guests although the high temperatures mean any liquid refreshments are lukewarm. The owner starts to hitch two white oxen to his cart in order to make a trip to the neighbouring village for some ice but his son quickly takes control and drives off on his moped, returning 20 minutes later with a dripping block of ice strapped to his carrier.

Seven villages in Prasath Sambo district, which is approximately a 45-minute drive from the provincial capital Kampong Thom, have formed a joint venture to try and attract more tourists to the area by offering overnight accommodation with local families.

The region is one of the poorest in Cambodia and can benefit greatly from any extra financial income. The project is supported by several international development organizations, such as the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ), which operate in the province.

The centrepiece of any visit is the ancient temple complex of Sambor Prei Kuk, located just to the north of Kampong Thom. The site consists of over 150 temples, some of which date back to the 7th century, when it was the first capital of Chenla, named Isanapura.

Many of the villages are surrounded by overgrown jungle vegetation with the branches of some trees climbing over the roofs of the stone buildings.

Tourists can not only help with the rice harvest, learn local cooking techniques and philosophise with monks in the Buddhist temples, but also assist researchers with the excavation of historical treasures. All the activities are organized by local operators in Kampong Thom and Phnom Phen but tourists travelling on their own can reach the site by bus, rent a bicycle or moped, or even pay a family to bring them there in an ox and cart.

'We want that the guests don't only stay for a few hours but a couple of nights,' says Hoch Vech, a 61-year-old villager, who proudly shows off her miniature solar system which powers three lamps, and an air-conditioning system in the guest room.

Accommodation with a family includes two meals and costs some 13 dollars a day. Each village has a guide who speaks English although obviously the guide can't be everywhere at once. 'It is also possible to communicate using gestures with your hands and feet,' says local guide Tong Khy with a smile.

'The project functions so well because the villagers have so many good ideas and their community is so active,' explains Visal Prom from the GIZ office in Phnom Penh. He knows that much still has to be done, especially for tourists with higher expectations. 'Small bungalow-style hotel complexes situated in scenic nature are under construction or planned,' he says.

The new Sambor Village hotel in Kampong Thom offers a swimming pool and exotic gardens. A double room for two people costs approximately 52 dollars while rooms at the Kompong Thom Village and Stung Sen hotels cost a little less. There is also a market and several restaurants, including an open-air eatery in Sambor Prei Kuk situated between temples and rain forest.

The restaurant is a family-run business where the mother slaughters the chickens and her 15-year-old son plucks the feathers. 'They don't come any fresher,' he says.