Originally posted at: http://jamesstephens.me/jungle-journey-aoral-wildlife-sanctuary/
Slowly, Cambodia’s natural wonders are being chipped away by greed and stupidity.
I was fighting a head cold the day we triple-road a derelict motorbike into the mountains of Aoral Wildlife Sanctuary in Kampong Speu province. The man in charge is Chut Wutty, Director of Cambodia’s Natural Resources Protection Group. In a country where everyone can be bought this non-profit group of volunteers wind up as the sole defenders of a line drawn between protected land and unsustainable exploitation.
This chapter of my trip began by running into Keyla Bebe, a student working for the Pulitzer Centre on a story covering land use in Cambodia and the intertwined social activism scene. It took just a brief conversation to realize that an opportunity existed here to see things and meet people that are well off the beaten path. A few days later Keyla and I met Wutty in his idling 4×4 at the crack of dawn. With only two seatbelts it was time to get comfortable bouncing around in the back, high on cold medication and not exactly sure where we were going.
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Just the odd tire puncture thrown in to make it interesting. |
To understand where we were going I had to learn a few things about how land use works in Cambodia. An economic land concession (ELC) is an area that has been given to a developer for extractive resource use. The developer/investor is granted rights to remove the forest cover and plant crops and/or mine aggregate resources in exchange for protecting a small parcel of the ELC, providing local jobs, and of course, greasing the palms of politicians and law enforcement. Keep in mind I am simplifying things here for brevity’s sake; for a full and well written description of land use in Cambodia check out Keyla’s writing and photos here.
As we drove through the countryside we were treated to the typical Cambodian landscape; sprawling fields in various states of crop cover, sporadic palms and fruit trees, and a distinct lack of any real forest. The hours dragged on and the mountains were becoming visible in the distance when it was time to make our first stop; a small collection of families producing charcoal from the timber coming off the mountain.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0AUfka7RoE
The grey dome structures are pits where the wood is ‘cooked’ into charcoal. The final product is then bundled up for export to the surrounding villages and distant cities where it is used as a cheap alternative to gas and oil. The irony of the situation, however, is that some of the timber being burned for charcoal is much more valuable if sold as lumber for construction.