POSTCARD FROM CAMBODIA Survival of the sublime
The Hindu (India)
After wars and catastrophe, you still find grace and solemn dignity.
THE world, it seems, has discovered Cambodia. Wherever we travelled in the old Khmer kingdom, we had to share space with people from diverse nationalities. There has been a tremendous resurgence of interest in the culture, religion and architecture of this nation. A nation that had once controlled the strategic sea routes in the area. A country that had built the world's largest single religious shrine.
Possessions
We were invited for dinner along with traditional Cambodian dance as an added attraction. The venue was an old house converted into an intimate theatre. At our table were six Asians (including two Cambodians) and a threesome who wore their first world citizen hood rather boisterously. By consensus the threesome were named the "consortium". The consortium prided themselves as being messiahs who had come to deliver Cambodia from all its ailments (at a price of course). Comfortable in their seat of power, they gregariously began to pontificate on the tragic polemics of governance in Cambodia, of the vulnerability of the economy, the blemishes of Cambodian cities, the landmass having yet to be freed of land mines. The two Cambodians smiled at the implied criticism, graciously served to refill empty glasses of wine, and explained the flavours and condiments used in the cuisine served.
The consortium then gravely debated about the heat, dust, the ecological impairment of the Tonse Lake. The gentleman from Bali was itching to defend all of Asia in one breath. In the background impossibly young boys and girls were strenuously performing a dance that captured life in the village (most older artists, dancers, culture preservers were killed in the Khmer Rouge regime). The Cambodians, however, never once lost the innocence of their smile that flowed with their exquisitely simple manners. One of the consortium members, after a rather long soliloquy, raised his hands and said, "What does Cambodia really have?" Reacting from an elemental human instinct of having been pushed to defending, the older Cambodian responded. Very quietly, he said, "Sir, we have Angkor Wat and many square miles of great temples. True, we are poor but the world come to us. Little healing we do. Little healing you do."
The simplicity of the rejoinder in broken English arrested the earlier conversation. That old temples could be viewed as an inheritance, a source of collective pride was indeed a revelation.
Spirit in stone
The city of Angkor has woken up from its long isolated spiritual retreat. On the temple sojourn the two aspects that strike the eye is the spread of foliage and the absolute maturity of stone sculpture. It is undeniable that all the main shrines, Angkor Wat, Bayon, Preah Khan have faced the vicissitudes of time and war. Yet these edifices stand in solemn dignity, sublimely triumphant that they still retain their inescapable presence.
It did seem ironical to stand at Angkor Wat , in front of a 3.2 metre high statue of Lord Vishnu, ridden with bullet marks, several body features amputated. However, the glow from a devotee's candle gave a celestial aura to the statue. Damaged or otherwise, people still bowed their heads in reverence.
An enthusiastic monk at Preah Khan graphically explained the layout of the monastery. He took pains to explain the characteristics that denote a true image of Buddha (elongated ears, the ring of flesh around the neck, the circle in the centre of the forehead). He spoke as if the statues were alive and truly the incarnation of the Buddha.
I could not help thinking that even though the civilisation has been severely wounded, the spirit has remained inviolate, sacred and resilient.
For a few dollars only
The most beguiling and aggressive task force in the world are little Cambodian children selling souvenirs. They are brilliant mathematicians calculating conversions of any foreign currency (US Dollars preferred) into Riel (local currency). Most are well versed in the catchphrases of sales and greetings in several languages. Behind their raucous laughter and artful sales tactics lay the fact that they are the major contributors to their family kitty. These little children best exemplify the philosophy: If you don't have the work you crave for, enjoy the work you have.
It is rather difficult to ignore their plaintive pleas and most of us in their company become robust spenders.
As we boarded our return flight, the official scanning our luggage and seeing masses of friendship bands and bags smiled. He thanked us not for having contributed to the economy but having indulged the children of Cambodia.
SADHANA RAO
THE world, it seems, has discovered Cambodia. Wherever we travelled in the old Khmer kingdom, we had to share space with people from diverse nationalities. There has been a tremendous resurgence of interest in the culture, religion and architecture of this nation. A nation that had once controlled the strategic sea routes in the area. A country that had built the world's largest single religious shrine.
Possessions
We were invited for dinner along with traditional Cambodian dance as an added attraction. The venue was an old house converted into an intimate theatre. At our table were six Asians (including two Cambodians) and a threesome who wore their first world citizen hood rather boisterously. By consensus the threesome were named the "consortium". The consortium prided themselves as being messiahs who had come to deliver Cambodia from all its ailments (at a price of course). Comfortable in their seat of power, they gregariously began to pontificate on the tragic polemics of governance in Cambodia, of the vulnerability of the economy, the blemishes of Cambodian cities, the landmass having yet to be freed of land mines. The two Cambodians smiled at the implied criticism, graciously served to refill empty glasses of wine, and explained the flavours and condiments used in the cuisine served.
The consortium then gravely debated about the heat, dust, the ecological impairment of the Tonse Lake. The gentleman from Bali was itching to defend all of Asia in one breath. In the background impossibly young boys and girls were strenuously performing a dance that captured life in the village (most older artists, dancers, culture preservers were killed in the Khmer Rouge regime). The Cambodians, however, never once lost the innocence of their smile that flowed with their exquisitely simple manners. One of the consortium members, after a rather long soliloquy, raised his hands and said, "What does Cambodia really have?" Reacting from an elemental human instinct of having been pushed to defending, the older Cambodian responded. Very quietly, he said, "Sir, we have Angkor Wat and many square miles of great temples. True, we are poor but the world come to us. Little healing we do. Little healing you do."
The simplicity of the rejoinder in broken English arrested the earlier conversation. That old temples could be viewed as an inheritance, a source of collective pride was indeed a revelation.
Spirit in stone
The city of Angkor has woken up from its long isolated spiritual retreat. On the temple sojourn the two aspects that strike the eye is the spread of foliage and the absolute maturity of stone sculpture. It is undeniable that all the main shrines, Angkor Wat, Bayon, Preah Khan have faced the vicissitudes of time and war. Yet these edifices stand in solemn dignity, sublimely triumphant that they still retain their inescapable presence.
It did seem ironical to stand at Angkor Wat , in front of a 3.2 metre high statue of Lord Vishnu, ridden with bullet marks, several body features amputated. However, the glow from a devotee's candle gave a celestial aura to the statue. Damaged or otherwise, people still bowed their heads in reverence.
An enthusiastic monk at Preah Khan graphically explained the layout of the monastery. He took pains to explain the characteristics that denote a true image of Buddha (elongated ears, the ring of flesh around the neck, the circle in the centre of the forehead). He spoke as if the statues were alive and truly the incarnation of the Buddha.
I could not help thinking that even though the civilisation has been severely wounded, the spirit has remained inviolate, sacred and resilient.
For a few dollars only
The most beguiling and aggressive task force in the world are little Cambodian children selling souvenirs. They are brilliant mathematicians calculating conversions of any foreign currency (US Dollars preferred) into Riel (local currency). Most are well versed in the catchphrases of sales and greetings in several languages. Behind their raucous laughter and artful sales tactics lay the fact that they are the major contributors to their family kitty. These little children best exemplify the philosophy: If you don't have the work you crave for, enjoy the work you have.
It is rather difficult to ignore their plaintive pleas and most of us in their company become robust spenders.
As we boarded our return flight, the official scanning our luggage and seeing masses of friendship bands and bags smiled. He thanked us not for having contributed to the economy but having indulged the children of Cambodia.
SADHANA RAO
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