The impressive Angkor Wat temple with it's pronounced moat is known the world over as the definitive symbol of Cambodia. (Submitted photo) August 20, 2006
By Lewis Kalmbach
The Shreveport Times (Louisiana, USA)
Let me just get the bad parts out of the way because the small agrarian kingdom of Cambodia is wildly interesting. First, let me speak of the atrocities of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge regime. In the late 1970s, nearly 1.5 million people were slaughtered in this genocide based upon a growing socialist movement. Many people I talked to had lost a father or brother or child during this horrific chapter. Some were lucky and escaped this monster's rule, only to end up later as victims of land mines, some of which are unearthed to this day. I'll never forget the image of a young man with no legs pushing his body through a muddy street begging for change.
Secondly, poverty is epidemic. In Cambodia, most families live on about 50 cents a day. I saw little naked children playing in fetid waters. Men in rags lazed about on hammocks in the hot midday sun. Homes were boxes, sticks, fronds and stray pieces of metal. All of this lies just outside of the tourist areas and is seldom seen by the "package deal" traveler.
Now on to the good stuff. The main reason to visit Cambodia is to see the stunning temples of Angkor Wat. Though there are many other Buddhist temples in the country, the ones near the town of Siem Reap are the most spectacular. With its brand-new airport, Siem Reap offers easy access from Thailand and Vietnam. Accommodations range from mangy backpacker guesthouses to ultra-posh, five-star hotels with prices generally the lowest in Southeast Asia.
The town isn't really that interesting, but it is host to a market district that rocks into the wee hours of the morning with loud music, heavy drinking and other types of carrying on. It reminded me of a big fraternity party during spring break. Oh, and there is a gratuitous crocodile farm nearby.
The temples, however, are the show stoppers and boast some of the largest religious monuments ever constructed. Dating back to 802 A.D. and covering 60 miles, these ruins remain one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In places the jungle has taken over the temples, evoking an organic mix of roots and limestone. To get the very best effect, visit in the early morning or late afternoon when the shadow play and warm light make magic among the giant Buddha faces, bas relief murals, lingas and steep stairways of Angkor Wat. Do not venture off the beaten paths as land mines are still active in some areas of this province.
It was among these ruins the publicity-hogging movie star Angelina Jolie made the sophomoric action thriller "Tomb Raider." Her likeness adorns many interiors of night clubs and restaurants. It was also here she "adopted" a baby before taking up with Brad Pitt and having her own in Namibia, Africa. Taxi drivers will tell you another story, but who really knows? Or cares?
Post-temple time is used to recover and plan a trip to Tonle Sap Lake. A mere hour away, and only during the rainy season when the water is high, lies a unique village of ramshackle barges, schools and churches. This nomadic fishing town is built entirely upon simple bamboo pontoons and rocks gently in the wakes of brightly colored tourist boats. Under many of the homes are large coops housing crocodiles and catfish instead of chickens.
Cambodia's tourist industry is booming, but so is the corruption. Many of the hotels and businesses simply don't pay taxes but slip something under the table to the greedy hands of the lame but stable government. While one may not notice this right away, a visit with a local resident will uncover loads of dirty laundry.
To avoid aiding the corruption, buy souvenirs from the school, which employs only artists with handicaps caused by land mines and poverty. Speak with one of the gentle, safforn-robbed monks. Sample the flavorful cuisine, much like that of Thailand, with coconut, curry and lemongrass bases. Step back in time to Cambodia, an ancient land of mystery, monuments and magic that will stay with you forever and beckon you to return.
Shreveport native Lewis Kalmbach of San Francisco is filing a weekly travel journal from his trip to Southeast Asia and South America.
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FIVE QUESTIONS FOR:
Kong Chantha, age 23, restaurant supervisor, Siem Reap, Cambodia.
1. What is the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the word FREEDOM? Freedom is where you can do everything you want under the law, even demonstrating. I am free to study by myself or with my friends. But we have a lot of problems with our government. They don't seem to care about the poor people. I make more money than most ($110 a month), which gives me freedom.
2. If you were given a first-class ticket anywhere in the world where would it be? The United States. They respect human law. I want to know more about the economy and compare it to my country. Not too many Americans come to my country.
3. What American do you admire the most? I like Mr. Bill Clinton. He helps people all over the world. He wants peace. Mr. George W. Bush seems to want World War III.
4. What is your impression of Louisiana? To be honest with you, I have never heard of it.
5. What aspect of American pop culture is important to you? My home is in the country so I don't have a television. But I have seen some American movies. I like "The Terminator" because I like the president of California.
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TRAVEL TIP
"Hey, lady! Look here!" said the tacky tourist with the firing of his Canon. The truth is, not everyone likes to have their photograph taken. In some cultures, it is strictly forbidden. In others, expect to pay homage with a coin or two. Always ask your subject first, even if is just a nod and a lifting of your camera. You will no doubt get a better picture and you won't come across as an "Ugly American." Smile!
Secondly, poverty is epidemic. In Cambodia, most families live on about 50 cents a day. I saw little naked children playing in fetid waters. Men in rags lazed about on hammocks in the hot midday sun. Homes were boxes, sticks, fronds and stray pieces of metal. All of this lies just outside of the tourist areas and is seldom seen by the "package deal" traveler.
Now on to the good stuff. The main reason to visit Cambodia is to see the stunning temples of Angkor Wat. Though there are many other Buddhist temples in the country, the ones near the town of Siem Reap are the most spectacular. With its brand-new airport, Siem Reap offers easy access from Thailand and Vietnam. Accommodations range from mangy backpacker guesthouses to ultra-posh, five-star hotels with prices generally the lowest in Southeast Asia.
The town isn't really that interesting, but it is host to a market district that rocks into the wee hours of the morning with loud music, heavy drinking and other types of carrying on. It reminded me of a big fraternity party during spring break. Oh, and there is a gratuitous crocodile farm nearby.
The temples, however, are the show stoppers and boast some of the largest religious monuments ever constructed. Dating back to 802 A.D. and covering 60 miles, these ruins remain one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In places the jungle has taken over the temples, evoking an organic mix of roots and limestone. To get the very best effect, visit in the early morning or late afternoon when the shadow play and warm light make magic among the giant Buddha faces, bas relief murals, lingas and steep stairways of Angkor Wat. Do not venture off the beaten paths as land mines are still active in some areas of this province.
It was among these ruins the publicity-hogging movie star Angelina Jolie made the sophomoric action thriller "Tomb Raider." Her likeness adorns many interiors of night clubs and restaurants. It was also here she "adopted" a baby before taking up with Brad Pitt and having her own in Namibia, Africa. Taxi drivers will tell you another story, but who really knows? Or cares?
Post-temple time is used to recover and plan a trip to Tonle Sap Lake. A mere hour away, and only during the rainy season when the water is high, lies a unique village of ramshackle barges, schools and churches. This nomadic fishing town is built entirely upon simple bamboo pontoons and rocks gently in the wakes of brightly colored tourist boats. Under many of the homes are large coops housing crocodiles and catfish instead of chickens.
Cambodia's tourist industry is booming, but so is the corruption. Many of the hotels and businesses simply don't pay taxes but slip something under the table to the greedy hands of the lame but stable government. While one may not notice this right away, a visit with a local resident will uncover loads of dirty laundry.
To avoid aiding the corruption, buy souvenirs from the school, which employs only artists with handicaps caused by land mines and poverty. Speak with one of the gentle, safforn-robbed monks. Sample the flavorful cuisine, much like that of Thailand, with coconut, curry and lemongrass bases. Step back in time to Cambodia, an ancient land of mystery, monuments and magic that will stay with you forever and beckon you to return.
Shreveport native Lewis Kalmbach of San Francisco is filing a weekly travel journal from his trip to Southeast Asia and South America.
----------
FIVE QUESTIONS FOR:
Kong Chantha, age 23, restaurant supervisor, Siem Reap, Cambodia.
1. What is the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the word FREEDOM? Freedom is where you can do everything you want under the law, even demonstrating. I am free to study by myself or with my friends. But we have a lot of problems with our government. They don't seem to care about the poor people. I make more money than most ($110 a month), which gives me freedom.
2. If you were given a first-class ticket anywhere in the world where would it be? The United States. They respect human law. I want to know more about the economy and compare it to my country. Not too many Americans come to my country.
3. What American do you admire the most? I like Mr. Bill Clinton. He helps people all over the world. He wants peace. Mr. George W. Bush seems to want World War III.
4. What is your impression of Louisiana? To be honest with you, I have never heard of it.
5. What aspect of American pop culture is important to you? My home is in the country so I don't have a television. But I have seen some American movies. I like "The Terminator" because I like the president of California.
----------
TRAVEL TIP
"Hey, lady! Look here!" said the tacky tourist with the firing of his Canon. The truth is, not everyone likes to have their photograph taken. In some cultures, it is strictly forbidden. In others, expect to pay homage with a coin or two. Always ask your subject first, even if is just a nod and a lifting of your camera. You will no doubt get a better picture and you won't come across as an "Ugly American." Smile!
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