Salade CambodgienneBy Visi Tilak,
Boston Globe Correspondent (Massachusetts, USA)
August 2, 2006
Coleslaws are a lot more versatile than the classic bowl of shredded cabbage tossed with vinegar and mayonnaise. In Southern and Southeast Asia, coleslaws are made with carrots, beets, raw mango, papaya, red and green cabbages, pineapple , and other fruits and vegetables. The colors are brilliant and dressings are extremely light and refreshing.
They also often have a kick from colorful specks of green and red chili peppers. Additional texture can come from tofu, sprouts, and toasted nuts that garnish some of these salads, which are eaten with chopsticks or fingers, as accompaniments or meals on their own.
Southern and Southeast Asian restaurants that make coleslaws do not call them that. They're typically labeled as salads and they only seem like slaws once you realize that the entire plate contains shredded items. Elephant Walk has been serving a traditional Cambodian salad for several years. The restaurant, which has locations in Boston, Cambridge, and Waltham, serves salade Cambodgienne , which is a lunch favorite. The classic salade Cambodgienne consists of shredded cabbage, carrots, red bell pepper, crushed peanuts, mint, and basil, mixed with a garlicky dressing called tuk-trey, which contains lime juice and fish sauce.
Executive chef and co-owner Nadsa de Monteiro says the salad ``is very popular in Cambodia and is usually served with Asian basil, shredded chicken , or shredded pork." Even though Cambodians do not have a vegan culture, Elephant Walk created a version without meat or fish because of the many requests they had from their customers. ``In fact , we have created vegan and vegetarian options for many dishes in our menu," says Monteiro.
Also on the menu is a fruit-based coleslaw called salade aux fruits tropiceaux, in which star fruit, green pineapple, or green mango is mixed with shrimp, basil, and mint. The dressing for the fruit slaw, called kampot, explains Monteiro ``is made with lime pulp, fresh fish sauce, fresh green chilis, and lots of lime juice." Because of the strong flavors, she says, the fruit salad is best as a side or an accompaniment. ``It is served with fried whole grilled trout or rice," says the chef.
In Southern India, carrot coleslaws are an accompaniment to many meals, and are served on festival or wedding days. The intense tanginess of a carrot slaw comes from lime juice in the dressing; the orange mixture sometimes contains raw shredded mango as well.
Thai slaws are similar to their Cambodian counterparts and dressings almost always contain peanuts. Indonesian slaws, which also contain the cabbage-carrot mix, might be tossed with curry powder and a finely chopped chili pepper.
On the Western table, an Asian slaw goes well with hearty grilled fish, such as sword or tuna, or grilled chicken. The salads can be made well ahead of time and kept overnight in the refrigerator. There's a reason why American slaws are in every deli case: in hot weather, the crunch and vinegary dressings are irresistible. Shift your focus east and you get pleasing, but quite different, results.
Serves 4
DRESSING
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1/2 cup Asian fish sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoons salt
1. In a small saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the sugar and cook over low heat, stirring, just until it dissolves; set aside to cool.
2. Stir in the garlic and shallot and cook 30 minutes more.
3. Add the fish sauce, lime juice, and salt. Mix well and set aside.
SALAD
4 cups water
1 large bone-in chicken breast (about 1 pound)
1 head cabbage (about 2 pounds), shredded
2 carrots, shredded
1 onion, thinly sliced
1/2 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
1/2 cup loosely packed mint leaves
1/2 cup loosely packed basil leaves
1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
3 sprigs fresh cilantro (for garnish)
1. In a large deep skillet, bring the water to a boil. Add the chicken breast and return the liquid to a boil. Skim any scum from the pan. Lower the heat and cover the pan. Simmer the breast for 15 to 20 minutes until the meat is cooked through. Remove the chicken from the liquid and set it aside to cool.
2. With your fingers, discard the chicken skin and bones; shred the meat.
3. In a large salad bowl, toss the cabbage, carrots, onion, bell pepper, mint, basil, chicken, and 1/4 cup of the peanuts.
4. Add 1/3 cup of dressing and toss again. Add more dressing if you like. Transfer the salad to a large platter.
5. Garnish with the remaining 1/4 cup peanuts and cilantro.
Adapted from ``The Elephant Walk Cookbook"
They also often have a kick from colorful specks of green and red chili peppers. Additional texture can come from tofu, sprouts, and toasted nuts that garnish some of these salads, which are eaten with chopsticks or fingers, as accompaniments or meals on their own.
Southern and Southeast Asian restaurants that make coleslaws do not call them that. They're typically labeled as salads and they only seem like slaws once you realize that the entire plate contains shredded items. Elephant Walk has been serving a traditional Cambodian salad for several years. The restaurant, which has locations in Boston, Cambridge, and Waltham, serves salade Cambodgienne , which is a lunch favorite. The classic salade Cambodgienne consists of shredded cabbage, carrots, red bell pepper, crushed peanuts, mint, and basil, mixed with a garlicky dressing called tuk-trey, which contains lime juice and fish sauce.
Executive chef and co-owner Nadsa de Monteiro says the salad ``is very popular in Cambodia and is usually served with Asian basil, shredded chicken , or shredded pork." Even though Cambodians do not have a vegan culture, Elephant Walk created a version without meat or fish because of the many requests they had from their customers. ``In fact , we have created vegan and vegetarian options for many dishes in our menu," says Monteiro.
Also on the menu is a fruit-based coleslaw called salade aux fruits tropiceaux, in which star fruit, green pineapple, or green mango is mixed with shrimp, basil, and mint. The dressing for the fruit slaw, called kampot, explains Monteiro ``is made with lime pulp, fresh fish sauce, fresh green chilis, and lots of lime juice." Because of the strong flavors, she says, the fruit salad is best as a side or an accompaniment. ``It is served with fried whole grilled trout or rice," says the chef.
In Southern India, carrot coleslaws are an accompaniment to many meals, and are served on festival or wedding days. The intense tanginess of a carrot slaw comes from lime juice in the dressing; the orange mixture sometimes contains raw shredded mango as well.
Thai slaws are similar to their Cambodian counterparts and dressings almost always contain peanuts. Indonesian slaws, which also contain the cabbage-carrot mix, might be tossed with curry powder and a finely chopped chili pepper.
On the Western table, an Asian slaw goes well with hearty grilled fish, such as sword or tuna, or grilled chicken. The salads can be made well ahead of time and kept overnight in the refrigerator. There's a reason why American slaws are in every deli case: in hot weather, the crunch and vinegary dressings are irresistible. Shift your focus east and you get pleasing, but quite different, results.
Salade Cambodgienne Recipe
August 2, 2006Serves 4
DRESSING
1/4 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 small shallot, finely chopped
1/2 cup Asian fish sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoons salt
1. In a small saucepan bring the water to a boil. Add the sugar and cook over low heat, stirring, just until it dissolves; set aside to cool.
2. Stir in the garlic and shallot and cook 30 minutes more.
3. Add the fish sauce, lime juice, and salt. Mix well and set aside.
SALAD
4 cups water
1 large bone-in chicken breast (about 1 pound)
1 head cabbage (about 2 pounds), shredded
2 carrots, shredded
1 onion, thinly sliced
1/2 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
1/2 cup loosely packed mint leaves
1/2 cup loosely packed basil leaves
1/2 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
3 sprigs fresh cilantro (for garnish)
1. In a large deep skillet, bring the water to a boil. Add the chicken breast and return the liquid to a boil. Skim any scum from the pan. Lower the heat and cover the pan. Simmer the breast for 15 to 20 minutes until the meat is cooked through. Remove the chicken from the liquid and set it aside to cool.
2. With your fingers, discard the chicken skin and bones; shred the meat.
3. In a large salad bowl, toss the cabbage, carrots, onion, bell pepper, mint, basil, chicken, and 1/4 cup of the peanuts.
4. Add 1/3 cup of dressing and toss again. Add more dressing if you like. Transfer the salad to a large platter.
5. Garnish with the remaining 1/4 cup peanuts and cilantro.
Adapted from ``The Elephant Walk Cookbook"
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