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Though contemporary in presentation, Joannès Rivière's Sanday fish is made with Cambodian ingredients and incorporates eggplant cooked in a palm sugar braise. |
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The interior of Cuisine Wat Damnak, located in a converted bungalow. |
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Vendors at Psar Chas, a market in Siem Reap where Mr. Rivière buys ingredients. |
August 30, 2012
By Robyn Eckhardt
The Wall Street Journal
Consider Joannès Rivière’s Sanday fish dish as his version of Cambodia on a plate.
Though it appears borne out of a contemporary European kitchen, the French-born 32-year-old chef insists it’s pure Cambodian, featuring fish from the Tonle Sap, the country’s main waterway, and eggplant cooked in a traditional palm-sugar khaw braise.
Mr. Rivière moved to Cambodia in 2003 to teach cooking to underprivileged youth. Born in Roanne to a restaurateur and farmer who supplied fresh vegetables to Michelin-starred La Maison Troisgros, Mr. Rivière studied cooking in France and worked with pastry in the United States for three years before moving to Siem Reap in 2003 to teach cooking to underprivileged Cambodian youth.
In 2005, he became executive chef at Siem Reap’s luxe Hotel de la Paix, a post he left in 2010 to open Cuisine Wat Damnak, an upscale restaurant with a relaxed vibe in a converted bungalow.