Wat's up? ... Buddhist monks outside the main shrine at the Khmer temple at Phimai, Thailand. Photograph: Getty
Making a splash … Tok Haew Narok waterfall. Photograph: Alamy
There are no full moon parties in Isaan, perhaps Thailands' least touristy region. Instead you'll find sleepy villages, Khmer architecture, and a boutique hotel right on the Mekong
Saturday 18 September 2010
Chris Coplans
The Guardian (UK)
After hacking through undergrowth for a couple of hours, we emerged sweaty, muddy and bedraggled at the 25m-high Tok Haew Narok falls, which (please excuse yet another reference to The Beach in a Thailand article) are the ones Leonardo DiCaprio leapt from in the film. We scrambled down to swim in the turquoise pool below it.
My guide – called Apple – and I were following a challenging 8km trail through the Khao Yai national park, a huge tract of monsoon forest and a Unesco world heritage site two hours north of Bangkok. On the western edge of the Isaan region, it is home to tigers, bears, leopards, deer, gibbons, hornbills and elephants.
The Isaan region covers a huge swathe of north-east Thailand stretching to the Mekong river, Laos and Cambodia. It is the country's least visited area – as close to the "old Thailand" as you can get, and a welcome change from the tour group- and backpacker-choked northern destinations of Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle.
Boutique hotels are few and far between, a steaming broth of noodle soup replaces the banana pancake breakfast, and pedicabs rather than taxis or tuk-tuks are the main mode of transport. I encountered sleepy, small rural towns that depend on farming, not tourism, despite the fact that this area is not only a stunning natural wilderness, but also full of fantastic Khmer temples.
Just like those in Cambodia (including Angkor Wat), the 182 Khmer sites in Isaan were built by the God Kings of Angkor, who at the height of their supremacy, from the ninth to the 13th century, extended their empire into Burma. Many of the finest examples of Khmer architecture are to be found on Issan's Khorat Plateau, clustered around Buriram, Surin and Khorat provinces. I explored many of them and, more often than not, I had them pretty much to myself.
The jewel in the crown was undoubtedly Phimai, 60 miles north-east of Khorat, less than three hours from Bangkok. The temple complex is right in the heart of the otherwise humdrum little town of Phimai, and entering it is like walking into a secret, mythical garden. The whole complex is dominated by an exquisite prang (tower), the iconic corn-on-the-cob-like Khmer structure – in fact, some claim that Angkor Wat was modelled on Phimai.
Apple and I sat, cocooned in a soporific tropical haze, transfixed, as the sandstone of the temple absorbed the last rays of the weakening sun, and were joined by a group of novice monks in saffron robes, who imparted spiritual wisdom about Lampard and Rooney.
The next morning we were up at dawn for a two-hour drive east across the flat, dusty landscape of the Khorat Plateau to another great Thai Khmer monument, Phanom Rung. Although Isaan is a vast region, distances between the Khmer temples are short, and all the main sites can be seen in a couple of days.
Phanom Rung is perched atop an extinct volcano, with panoramic views of the surrounding plain, and I climbed up steps worn down by centuries of visiting Buddhist pilgrims to a promenade overlooking the exquisite sandstone tower of the main temple, with its labyrinth of hidden chambers.
A few miles on was the Meuang Tam complex, based on the design of Angkor Wat, but with four L-shaped ponds covered with colourful lotus flowers.
I ventured east next, towards the Mekong valley, into rural landscapes full of paddy fields broken up by palm trees – Thailand is the world's largest rice exporter and much of the crop is grown in Isaan.
Isaan hot is a different kettle of spice from regular Thai hot as I found out when I ordered larb moo (minced pork salad) in a small roadside restaurant.
Several hours later we had made it to Khong Jiam, a somnolent river town, beautifully located on a peninsula where the blue waters of the river Mun are overwhelmed by the bubbling chocolate that is the Mekong. After staying in many basic rural lodges during our journey, I was overjoyed to find a boutique hotel here, the Tohsang Khong Jiam, right on the bank of the Mekong, with enchanting views of the mountains of Laos on the other side.
Leaving Kong Jiam to head back to Bangkok, we stumbled upon Wat Tham Khuha Sawan, which overlooks the town and the river. In complete contrast to the bewitching Khmer temples, this modern temple, built in 1978, has a surreal theme park feel to it, with a mish-mash of flamboyant architectural styles. A huge elephant protects the Buddha images below, and the main stupa's golden spires wink conspiratorially in the dazzling light. There is a dreamlike bell tower, topped with fierce nagas (mythical serpent deities) and golden spires. In Isaan, always prepare for the unexpected.
